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First Lady of Magic 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd and Donette Swain; November 1991.
Page Views: 139
Submitted By: John Hegyes on Jan 1, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Illusion Crags Main Face

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


First Lady of Magic climbs the corner that curves to the left forming the arch 5 feet right of Who Deany. Ascend the corner until you can reach right and pull up, on to the face. Climb up to a bolt and then head right a bit to a small ledge. Fire up the obvious crack to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel with two ropes.

A single rope rappel can be done to the anchors on top of Who Deany to the climber's left, followed by another single rope rap to the ground.


Gear up to #2 Camalot. Lots of small gear.

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By Andrew Yasso
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 11, 2014

We easily top-roped this climb and rappelled with a single 70M line with room to spare. A fun, exciting climb on great rock. Reminded me a bit of Sensuous Mortician on the Necromancer wall. Be cognisant getting to the bolt, as it would require a static catch from the belayer if you fell just below it to keep you off the ground.

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