First ice tools, advice needed

Hey guys,

I'm looking to buy my first set of tools. I want 'em to last me while I progreess and also to be pretty versatile, water ice in the winter, alpine ice in the summer. How hard can a straight-shaft axe climb? I have the opportunity to pick up some DMM Flys for pretty cheap and was wondering if they would be worth it?

dmmclimbing.com/products/ic…

The only other tool I've used are the older, leashed BD cobras. And I probably won't be doing all that much dry tooling.

Try to find a used pair of tools for your first set and save yourself a lot of money. Used pair of Petzl Quarks would be my advice, a tool that does everything well.

Highlander beat me to it but I'll go ahead and place another vote for the used Quarks. It's really a no-brainer, Quarks is it. Could probably find a slightly older generation of em for around $200-$250. Have fun.

Another plug for the Quarks!

X All Mountains best tool out there.\

Straight shaft model Quarks, not the old ones with the offset grips.

Everyone is going to disagree on what tool will serve you purpose best, just how it is. if one tool worked for everyone we wouldn't have variety. Anyways the DMM's have merit and will climb as hard as you're able to push them. I used to have a very similar tool from Grivel that I was able to go into WI5-6 types of climbing so long as the ice wasn't chopped up. That being said there are tools that can make life a lot nicer, ie the quarks are more versatile if their swing agrees with you. And as the others have posted quarks will be sold used for some really good prices where the DMM's are not nearly as popular and therefor much harder to find used.

Inexpensive and excellent tools to get started with would be Grivel Matrix Techs, Cassin X-All Mountains or used Quarks. Check eBay, this site, Cascade Climbers and NEIce.com. You can also Google each one to find sale prices on new ones.

I will make three votes for the Cassin X-All Mountain.

I have old CF Cobras that fit that bill. Excellent tool. The quark is great too. Try to buy used if possible, at least till you figure out what you like

scott cooney wrote:Everyone is going to disagree on what tool will serve you purpose best, just how it is. if one tool worked for everyone we wouldn't have variety. Anyways the DMM's have merit and will climb as hard as you're able to push them. I used to have a very similar tool from Grivel that I was able to go into WI5-6 types of climbing so long as the ice wasn't chopped up. That being said there are tools that can make life a lot nicer, ie the quarks are more versatile if their swing agrees with you. And as the others have posted quarks will be sold used for some really good prices where the DMM's are not nearly as popular and therefor much harder to find used.

This post reeks of spray and noob. The end-all tool right now is the X-mountain.

Cool thanks for the replies.

My concern with the straighter axes was that when I make the move to more sustained vertical ice they would start to make life a little more pumpy and I would wish for a some more clearance.

I've been looking at the Cassin X-AMs too. They look sweet. I'll keep my eyes open for a deal on the Quarks as well.

Get the Cassin All mtns. You may out grow the Quarks if you get into mixed or steep ice. All it takes is sharing ropes with somebody who's got a TR on a mixed line and.. boom you're hooked.

X all mountain. nice swing but the grips are fragile, the pinky catch/guard breaks and is held on by the rubber. still an awesome tool.

Can someone here explain WHY the All Mountain? I'm 4 years into the sport and haven't swung those. What makes em awesome? I currently own the CF Cobras...

Cale Hoopes wrote:Can someone here explain WHY the All Mountain? I'm 4 years into the sport and haven't swung those. What makes em awesome? I currently own the CF Cobras...

They have a thin pick which seems to displace very little ice. A large amount of the time you get really solid one-hit sticks.

They have a decently aggressive clearance without being difficult or awkward to swing.

They're neither overly heavy nor ultra-lightweight so the swing is solid, but not tiring.

I wouldn't say they're the best tool available but they're almost certainly the best value. They're extremely affordable for the performance. I'd say they perform about as well as the CF Cobras for much cheaper. I have Nomics, which I love, but I've climbed on the All Mountains and they're pretty solid for pure water ice.

dont get a non leashless tool or one that cant be made leashless. you just end up buying one in a season or two anyways.

cassin-x all mountain or a used pair of old quarks.

Thanks a ton Garret! Exactly the type of review I wanted.

Kirby1013 wrote:Get the Cassin All mtns. You may out grow the Quarks if you get into mixed or steep ice. All it takes is sharing ropes with somebody who's got a TR on a mixed line and.. boom you're hooked.

I think the Quarks work well for steep ice and mixed BS, you just have to adapt to avoid a little knuckle bashing, but they're amazing all around tools!

neice.com/classifieds/showp…

I don't know if this has already been suggested, but go check out an ice festival and demo the tools you're thinking about and see for yourself what you like and don't like. Sign up for a clinic where there will be bunch of people with a bunch of different tools and swap tools between laps to see if you like a different pair more. No one can tell you what tool is the best or what you are going to like. I've been pretty suprised before when I tried the "old crappy tools" and loved them or the "cutting edge new tools" and thought they really mediocre. Either try and score a used pair of known performer's cheap and hope for the best. Or get out there and do some home work before you plunk down a month's rent on tools you're told you're going to like. Just my 2 cents, good luck!