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First Face

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First Face Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.81955, -63.20287 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Neil Atkinson on Aug 21, 2017
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Please park at the end of Paces Lake Drive. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

First Face offers some of the finest climbing in the province, in both sport and traditional styles. Although the climbs are all single pitches, most are a decent length (~25m). And with the added height of the scree slope rising out of Paces Lake, the exposure is delicious. The rock is of unusually fine quality – much friendlier than most of the granite in Nova Scotia – with flat positive holds and decent friction.

In the off-seasons, the rock catches a fair bit of sun and so tends to be warmer than most other places at these times of year. If there’s no wind the bugs can be bad but if it’s blowing, you can steal a few climbing days here during the peak of bug season. It’s also one of the first cliffs to dry after a rain.

It is worth noting that with a limited number of easily accessible moderate routes, a beginner party may be more interested in other local crags such as G-Spot, or The Castle. For more information visit climbnovascotia.ca/crags/

Getting There 

Coming from the Musquodoboit Harbour junction, drive past the gated logging road for Main Face, to Paces Lake Drive. Park in a pull-off where the two roads intersect. Walk up Paces Lake Drive to the trail head on the left side of the gate.

Climbing Season

For the Canada area.

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For First Face

Professor Diggs and the Berry Bandit 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  North America : Canada : ... : First Face
Follow bolts up a weakness in pristine smooth rock on great incuts to steeper terrain. Make tenuous moves along incipient cracks before a powerful steeper finish. Well protected and exciting climbing!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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