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First Dibs 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Anderson, Lane - November 1989? Dave Fields (?), 1993
Page Views: 751
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 17, 2001

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winter sunshine

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Chase a line of bolts just right of Radiation Fear via large pockets on a left diagonal to a good stance. Chill, pull the face on thin edges and get established below the short arete above. Get a clip under the arete's roof and another on the face above. A nifty, kinesthetic sequence polishes the arete and gains the anchor. This sequence may be closer to 10d than 10c. This is a fun route and one of the best on the wall.


Six draws and a rope.

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By Herb Roubidoux
Dec 28, 2001

This is a great climb and I agree with the 10c. Note that "sport climbing is neither", though (just kidding!)
From: Englewood, CO
Apr 7, 2003

Fun climb with a great finish but 10c/d?! Really? I did Beta Slave the same day and found that to be a much more challenging climb. Maybe I was cheating on this one. Are all the juggs off limits or something like that? This whole climb is super juggy except for the last two moves.
By Mike Lane
From: Centennial, CO
Nov 16, 2003

I listed this as 10.a in the '94 Rock & Ice guide. As Tom, Tod, Richard, Scott and I were there just about every weekend at the time, I'm pretty sure that was consenus. The arete pull is the only "hard" move, and even then only because you can't see the key pocket. Then again, we were on these routes so often that we got inadvertantly sandbaggy. 10b might be right.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jan 3, 2004

5.10c/d seems sufficient to me. This got interesting at the top near the arete. Plenty of winter sunshine!
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 18, 2008

FA - Anderson, Lane - November 1989

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