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f. Tom's Wall & Next West Face
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Broken Pedals T,TR 
Crack-A-Lack TR 
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Reach Around T,TR 

First Day 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,858
Submitted By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Nice cracks in the lower part of the route.


There are two ways to do this route, once past the huge horizontal offwidth: left open book goes 5.7, right open book goes 5.8.


Climb left side (left-facing corner) of cut-out area straight up to huge horizontal, then take your pick of open books -- left side, or right side.


Adequate. Can sling large boulder for anchor, and put in additional pieces under it. The only trees in the vicinity are Pitch Pines.

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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 12, 2010

Tried twice but got to the bottom of the crux and couldn't figure out a sequence to get into either 'book'. Next time perhaps.

Fun and stiff 5.7 climbing, with some layback moves, up to the ceiling.
By Jim Ascuitto
Jul 14, 2011

Great Climb, found it easier to go left at the finish. Better gear and better hand holds to top out. Going right much more sloping holds till a really big "thank goodness" hold above the slopers. But definitely a 3 star climb from bottom to top. May be one of the best 5.7 climbs in the area.
By clando
Oct 18, 2012

Nice Route. Good Pro all the way.

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