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First Creek Canyon

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First Creek Canyon Rock Climbing 


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Location: 36.08122, -115.44788 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 100,521
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M. Morley on Feb 16, 2004  with updates from JSH and 1 more
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Description 

First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.

Getting There 

Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.2 miles from here

87 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',23],['5.8',14],['5.9',17],['5.10',20],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in First Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for First Creek Canyon:
Rising Moons   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 380'   First Creek Slabs
Doobie Dance   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Romper Room
Algae on Parade   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 600'   Romper Room
Lady Luck   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   First Creek Slabs
Sunset Slab   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   First Creek Slabs
Romper Room   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Romper Room
Kindergarten Cop   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Romper Room
Lotta Balls   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 420'   Lotta Balls Wall
Black Magic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 580'   Lotta Balls Wall
Dodgeball   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 700'   Lotta Balls Wall
Trihardral   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     , 4 pitches, 400'   Lotta Balls Wall
Hot Flash   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 10 pitches, 1200'   First Creek Slabs
Mudterm   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Mudterm Area
Bruja's Brew   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Lotta Balls Wall
Celtic Cracks   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 8 pitches, 1300'   Labyrinth Wall
Rob Roy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Alcohol Wall
Gin Ricky   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   Alcohol Wall
Mai Tai   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Alcohol Wall
The Undertone   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Slippery Buttress
Straight Shot   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Alcohol Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in First Creek Canyon

Featured Route For First Creek Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh quickly getting deeper than hands at the star...

Honcho Imposter 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Nevada : Red Rock : ... : The Schoolyard
This is a very striking straight-in crack that brings full value for the grade. It begins with perfect steep hand jams then progressively becomes wider until you can finally (mercifully) squeeze your body in near the top. Expect a lot of sustained, clean offwidth climbing in between. Unfortunately, the location will likely keep this route from becoming the classic it could be if it were more accessible....[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

Photos of First Creek Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool rocks up First Creek.
Cool rocks up First Creek.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another cool rock formation.
Another cool rock formation.
Rock Climbing Photo: Has anyone else seen this rock on the hike up firs...
Has anyone else seen this rock on the hike up firs...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lotta Balls Wall, Alchohol Wall, Romper Room, Risi...
Lotta Balls Wall, Alchohol Wall, Romper Room, Risi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking to the Lotta Balls Wall- First Creek Canyon...
Hiking to the Lotta Balls Wall- First Creek Canyon...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nathan Fitzhugh and John Maynard heading into Firs...
Nathan Fitzhugh and John Maynard heading into Firs...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking north from the hike in.  Bridge Mtn and So...
Looking north from the hike in. Bridge Mtn and So...
Rock Climbing Photo: Waterfall on First Creek. August 2005.
Waterfall on First Creek. August 2005.
Rock Climbing Photo: First Creek Walls
BETA PHOTO: First Creek Walls
Rock Climbing Photo: Waterfall on First Creek. July 2007.
Waterfall on First Creek. July 2007.
Rock Climbing Photo: A Bighorn Sheep, and Lotta Balls Wall.  Taken 7/11...
A Bighorn Sheep, and Lotta Balls Wall. Taken 7/11...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view of First Creek Canyon by morning light fr...
The view of First Creek Canyon by morning light fr...
Rock Climbing Photo: a nice ass
a nice ass
Rock Climbing Photo: South-facing aspects of First Creek Cny (southern ...
South-facing aspects of First Creek Cny (southern ...
Rock Climbing Photo: First Creek
First Creek
Rock Climbing Photo: A shot looking into the canyon from the approach. ...
A shot looking into the canyon from the approach. ...

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