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Mississippi Palisades
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Access Climb T 
Blank Face TR 
Bowline T,TR 
Crack-a-Toe-a T,TR 
Decapitator T,TR 
Difficult Crack T,TR 
Double Overhang T,TR 
Ethos TR 
Face Off TR 
First Crack T,TR 
Java TR 
Knob Off TR 
Next To Nothing 12.a TR 
North Chimney (Flat on Your Back Crack) T 
Nosey T,TR 
Over and Up TR 
Papoose T,TR 
Pretzel TR 
Pretzel Face TR 
Quiver T,TR 
Return Engagement TR 
Riverview Ridge T,TR 
Second Crack T,TR 
Sentinel Chimney T,TR 
Sentinel East Face T,TR 
Sentinel North Face TR 
Snaky T 
Third Crack TR 
Twin Cracks TR 
Up and Off TR 
Wrap-Around Route T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

First Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,966
Submitted By: metrozen on Jun 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Top View of 1st Crack

South Sentinel and Forgotten Wall both Closed. MORE INFO >>>


Crack and dihedral system to the right of Nosey.


First crack is past Nosey - at the east end of the cove.


Toprope or scant pro. Anchors same as Nosey and Pretzel, maybe use a directional here.

Photos of First Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chad at the anchors on First Crack.
Chad at the anchors on First Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st crack (5.6)
BETA PHOTO: 1st crack (5.6)

Comments on First Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gary Taylor
Sep 26, 2009

The climb described between Nosey and Blank Wall is actually Second Crack aka Myrtle's Folly. About 5.5.
By Dave Goodell
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Ditto Gary's comments. The route description seems wrong, but the photo looks right to me. There's another photo of First Crack listed incorrectly as Second Crack here.

I thought this was a really fun trad lead. The upper two thirds of the climb takes stoppers really well, so you don't need a big rack to lead this one.

There are only three downsides that I see to the route. One is that there is a lot of small loose rock and dirt to knock down on your belayer if you're not careful. Another is that, like most all routes here, it's rather short. The last is that you can't realistically get any protection in until your feet are maybe 10 feet off the ground. There's a good spot for a mid-size cam (#.75 C4 maybe?) lower, but you'd have to extend the piece enough to get the rope around the bulge higher up that it wouldn't offer any real protection against decking. Instead just climb carefully until you can get a #3 C4 in above a block trapped in the crack maybe 15 feet off the ground. Just remind yourself that the holds are all pretty good and the climbing is easy.

If you really want to fuss more, you could probably put that smaller cam in not extended, clip it, put the #3 in higher, then down climb and back-clean the smaller cam to avoid the rope drag.

There are 3 bolts at the top for anchoring.

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