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The Creamery
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First Come First Served 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 30'
Original:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ PG13 [details]
FA: Thomas Townsend, 2013
Season: Gets sun in afternoon.
Page Views: 1,617
Submitted By: andy patterson on Nov 17, 2013

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Thomas Townsend wearing a beanie.

Description 

Destined for glory, this one.

Begins in obvious cave. Start with left hand on vertical crimp and right hand on sloping edge. The idea is to start with your whole body in the cave. Do a desperate and shoulder-wrenching move to a pinch at the edge of the cave. Figure out transition to crimp-rail without swinging off the rock, and top out boulder via highball slab. Amazing stone, amazing position, amazing moves. Did I say I like this problem?

You can start the problem on the right-hand edge of the cave as well using some crimps and heelhooks. It makes the problem significantly easier, but no less quality.

Location 

On the First Come First Served boulder at the upper right corner of hillside. Take main trail uphill, and when it forks, head right.

Protection 

Good assortment of paddage.


Photos of First Come First Served Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the first powerful move to the pinch at the ...
Me on the first powerful move to the pinch at the ...

Comments on First Come First Served Add Comment
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Apr 27, 2014

For the record, it took me like 175 attempts of the OPENING MOVE to send this. Longest battle with a problem I've ever had.

It was dark, and all I had was a headlamp and a particularly potent blend of coffee and hot-chocolate.

So satisfying to send.
By Tim King
Feb 27, 2015

Only done the 'Cheat start' (straddling the cave), but even still it's mega classic. Had trouble sticking the original start move to the sloper pinch in the sun...
Must come back for an early morning or night sesh.... Sooo good.