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First Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andoullie S 
Ben Dunne T 
Black Crack T 
Boomerang S 
Corner Pocket S 
Creature S 
Cross Eyed and Blind S 
Eye of Mordor S 
Floaters S 
Lady Punk S 
Lamda S 
Push S 
Sausage S 
Superman S 
Toymaker S 
Typical Situation S 
Vignette S 
West Virginia Two-Step S 
You, Watch the Clocks! S 

First Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.14319, -80.91967 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,327
Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 16, 2009
Forecast:
Today

73° | 49°
Tuesday

69° | 47°
Wednesday

77° | 57°
Thursday

82° | 64°
Friday

83° | 65°
Saturday

80° | 64°
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Description 

This area is popular when it's raining....and when it's not. There are some very high quality routes here and if you're not content with these, it's only a short walk to the 2nd or 3rd buttress along the cliff.

Getting There 

The parking is the same for the Main Meadow area (pull off at the top of Underwood Road). From the pull off, hike down the ATV trail, heading left when the first option presents itself as rock begins to appear on the right. Follow this down to the bottom of the hill until you reach the old railroad bed. (If you make a left too early, it's OK, just follow another ATV trail that runs parallel to Route 19 and go under the bridge to reach the old railbed). Once you reach the river, head left, east of Route 19 along the railbed that runs along the Meadow River. Follow this for about 10-15 minutes from this point and keep an eye out for cairns on the left at a small path. Follow this path up the hill until you reach the cliff. The path should lead you directly to Push. If you miss the path you will notice a creepy looking shack on the right side of the old railbed that's covered in orange spray paint. If you see this, turn back or continue a short distance until you locate another set of cairns on the left at a path. This path will lead you to the 3rd buttress. You can walk left along the cliff to access the 2nd and 1st buttress.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.6 miles from here

19 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',6],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in First Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for First Buttress:
Ben Dunne   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Lady Punk   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 80'   
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Sausage   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Andoullie   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 40'   
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Lamda   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 90'   
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Eye of Mordor   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 110'   
Corner Pocket   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 90'   
Boomerang   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in First Buttress

Featured Route For First Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Umbel digging into the Corner Pocket (13a) a...

Corner Pocket 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : First Buttress
Easier climbing for the first four bolts or so, to the regular First Buttress sit-down rest. From here on it gets harder, with several tough boulder problems going over little roofs, separated by good rests. The very top goes into a hanging dihedral. There are two no hands rests, which makes the upper dihedral a little easier than expected....[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

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