REI Community
First Buttress

Select Area...
Baby Face / Middle Wall 
Big Roof, The 
Left Hand 
Parking Lot Wall 
Sun Deck 
Upper Wall, The 

First Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.72589, -106.77013 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,773
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kirk Woerner on Sep 18, 2003
Forecast:
Today

76° | 50°
Friday

75° | 50°
Saturday

73° | 49°
Sunday

72° | 48°
Monday

73° | 48°
Tuesday

74° | 47°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Hangin' at Harmels with some fine folk.

Description 

The First Buttress is a staked wall with easy access. The left side remains sunny all day, while the right side gets some shade in the late afternoon. This makes the upper wall a great after work crag in the hotter months. The right side of the first buttress is a slightly lesser known area than the left. It is set back a bit and so doesn't get as much traffic. The climbs are usually a bit more meandering. On the other hand, many of them have more than one pitch which makes them interesting. This is a great place in the hotter summer months since it faces a touch north and has many nooks and crannies for shade.

The routes are sorted as follows (from left to right):

SUNDECK
1- Tourist Attraction
2- Hurtin' fer Certain
3- Pink Flamin' Go
4- Awkward and Wide
5- Left Hand Mantel

PARKING LOT WALL
1- Billy Shears
2- Jackal
3- Cake Walk
4- Zig Zag
5- Bourbon Street
6- Whiskey Crack
7- Whiskey Dick
8- Oh Mama

THE BIG ROOF
1- Bronco Billy's
2- Double Time at Sue's Place
3- Guanos Dios
4- Welcome to China

BABY FACE/MIDDLE WAL
1- Kindergarten Crack
2- Aqua Dog
3- Solo Crack
4- Tony's Tango
5- Crystal Staircase
6- Baby Face
7- Taylor Made


LEFT HAND (aka AIR CONDITIONER CORNER)
1- Left Hand Crack
2- Fine Whine
3- Air Conditioner
4- Question of Balance

UPPER WALL
1- Aphrodite
2- Cigarette
3- Dun's Dihedral
4- Sasafrass
5- Corkey's Rumpet
6- Christine's Dream
7- Singapore Sling
8- Half Hearted
9- Outter Limits
10- Maria's Farewell
11- Gymnastics
12- Kathy's Corner

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.3 miles from here

41 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',6],['5.10',12],['5.11',7],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in First Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for First Buttress:
Kindergarten Crack   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Tony's Tango   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Crystal Staircase   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Solo Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
The Jackal   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Parking Lot Wall
Aphrodite   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   The Upper Wall
Left Hand Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Left Hand
Air Conditioner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Left Hand
Zig Zag   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Parking Lot Wall
Baby Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Black Gash   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Upper Wall
Taylor Made   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Singapore Sling   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   The Upper Wall
Oh Mama Mama   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 270'   Parking Lot Wall
Maria's Farewell   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   The Upper Wall
Hurtin' Fer Certain.   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Sun Deck
Whiskey Crack   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Parking Lot Wall
Question of Balance   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Left Hand
Fine Whine   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 135'   Left Hand
Double Time at Sue's Place   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Big Roof
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in First Buttress

Featured Route For First Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Whiskey Crack - the Tom Pulaski 5.10 testpiece.

Whiskey Crack 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Colorado : Gunnison : ... : Parking Lot Wall
Whiskey Crack is an absolute classic and one of the original Taylor Canyon testpieces. In my day, if you could lead Whiskey Crack, you had arrived.The climbing of crux pitch involves steep technical face climbing and thin crack work over small wired pro. The tendency is to try to snug into the v groove for security, but the key is to stay on the outside. This is a stellar route....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of First Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The first buttress in Taylor Canyon.
The first buttress in Taylor Canyon.

Comments on First Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By phil broscovak
Apr 9, 2008
Scott you are correct the site needs to be restructured a wee bit as it is misleading the way it is.

I would propose that the 1st Buttress be broken into the following areas: Parking lot wall (including all the routes from Inner Space thru Whiskey Dick), Sun Deck (Tourist Attraction thru Left Hand Mantel), Big Roof (Oh Mama Mama thru Double Time), Baby Face / Middle Wall {Kindergarten thru Question of Balance, And the Upper Wall (Aphrodite thru Kathy's Corner).

All those in favor type aye.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 9, 2008
AAARRRGGGHH! Aye me droogies! I think if we could come up with some pics of the different sections you propose (that John Peterson takes some pretty good shots) it might make it easier to discuss.
By John Peterson
Apr 9, 2008
Cool! I've always wanted to be a droog. Once the term is over (just 4 more weeks!!) I'll borrow a good camera and get some nice shots for you guys and we'll make MP the place to go for Gunnison area climbing.

Oh yeah, "AYE!".
By phil broscovak
Apr 10, 2008
Thanx you groovy admin dudes. You rock!
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 10, 2008
Here, Here! I wish I could get that kind of response out of my insurance company!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About