REI Community
First Buttress

Select Area...
Baby Face / Middle Wall 
Big Roof, The 
Left Hand 
Parking Lot Wall 
Sun Deck 
Upper Wall, The 

First Buttress Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,401'
Location: 38.72589, -106.77013 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 32,610
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kirk Woerner on Sep 18, 2003

60° | 37°

61° | 30°

45° | 23°

56° | 29°

60° | 29°

58° | 29°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Hangin' at Harmels with some fine folk.


The First Buttress is a staked wall with easy access. The left side remains sunny all day, while the right side gets some shade in the late afternoon. This makes the upper wall a great after work crag in the hotter months. The right side of the first buttress is a slightly lesser known area than the left. It is set back a bit and so doesn't get as much traffic. The climbs are usually a bit more meandering. On the other hand, many of them have more than one pitch which makes them interesting. This is a great place in the hotter summer months since it faces a touch north and has many nooks and crannies for shade.

The routes are sorted as follows (from left to right):

1- Tourist Attraction
2- Hurtin' fer Certain
3- Pink Flamin' Go
4- Awkward and Wide
5- Left Hand Mantel

1- Billy Shears
2- Jackal
3- Cake Walk
4- Zig Zag
5- Bourbon Street
6- Whiskey Crack
7- Whiskey Dick
8- Oh Mama

1- Bronco Billy's
2- Double Time at Sue's Place
3- Guanos Dios
4- Welcome to China

1- Kindergarten Crack
2- Aqua Dog
3- Solo Crack
4- Tony's Tango
5- Crystal Staircase
6- Baby Face
7- Taylor Made

1- Left Hand Crack
2- Fine Whine
3- Air Conditioner
4- Question of Balance

1- Aphrodite
2- Cigarette
3- Dun's Dihedral
4- Sasafrass
5- Corkey's Rumpet
6- Christine's Dream
7- Singapore Sling
8- Half Hearted
9- Outter Limits
10- Maria's Farewell
11- Gymnastics
12- Kathy's Corner

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.3 miles from here

41 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in First Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for First Buttress:
Kindergarten Crack   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Tony's Tango   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Crystal Staircase   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Solo Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
The Jackal   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Parking Lot Wall
Left Hand Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Left Hand
Air Conditioner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Left Hand
Zig Zag   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Parking Lot Wall
Baby Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Black Gash   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Upper Wall
Taylor Made   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Baby Face / Middle Wall
Singapore Sling   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   The Upper Wall
Oh Mama Mama   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 270'   Parking Lot Wall
Maria's Farewell   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   The Upper Wall
Hurtin' Fer Certain   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Sun Deck
Whiskey Crack   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Parking Lot Wall
Fine Whine   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 135'   Left Hand
Whiskey Dick   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Parking Lot Wall
Question of Balance   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Left Hand
Double Time at Sue's Place   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Big Roof
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in First Buttress

Featured Route For First Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: The Law of Gravity in effect. One of Chucks Big Sw...

Double Time at Sue's Place 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  Colorado : Gunnison : ... : The Big Roof
When looking at the Big Roof there is a prominent crack through the roof that is shapped like a bombay Vee slot. That is 'Welcome to China' 5.12. 15 feet to the right is an astounding S shapped thin crack that splits the entire roof. This route is 'Double time at Sue's Place'. Start from under the Big Roof and ascend either 'Bronco Billy's' or 'Guanos Dias' to the base of the roof. Set what ever gear you feel comfortable with, grab the first holds, pick up your feet and go Michaelangello go! Thi...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of First Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The first buttress in Taylor Canyon.
The first buttress in Taylor Canyon.

Comments on First Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By phil broscovak
Apr 9, 2008
Scott you are correct the site needs to be restructured a wee bit as it is misleading the way it is.

I would propose that the 1st Buttress be broken into the following areas: Parking lot wall (including all the routes from Inner Space thru Whiskey Dick), Sun Deck (Tourist Attraction thru Left Hand Mantel), Big Roof (Oh Mama Mama thru Double Time), Baby Face / Middle Wall {Kindergarten thru Question of Balance, And the Upper Wall (Aphrodite thru Kathy's Corner).

All those in favor type aye.
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 9, 2008
AAARRRGGGHH! Aye me droogies! I think if we could come up with some pics of the different sections you propose (that John Peterson takes some pretty good shots) it might make it easier to discuss.
By John Peterson
Apr 9, 2008
Cool! I've always wanted to be a droog. Once the term is over (just 4 more weeks!!) I'll borrow a good camera and get some nice shots for you guys and we'll make MP the place to go for Gunnison area climbing.

Oh yeah, "AYE!".
By phil broscovak
Apr 10, 2008
Thanx you groovy admin dudes. You rock!
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 10, 2008
Here, Here! I wish I could get that kind of response out of my insurance company!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About