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First Born 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scott Duemler
Season: Winter is cold
Page Views: 3,765
Submitted By: Eric Foster on Apr 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Making a reach

Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area MORE INFO >>>


Awesome climb, i think it could be a classic, it has everything from chimmney, stemming and great face climbing.


Start as same as double exposure left of KGB.


Many bolts to chains

Photos of First Born Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Directional at the top of the chimney was helpful ...
Directional at the top of the chimney was helpful ...
Rock Climbing Photo: almost to the top
almost to the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott the man that gave birth to the route on 21 o...
Scott the man that gave birth to the route on 21 o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun, very moderate chimney.
Fun, very moderate chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: ft on first born
ft on first born
Rock Climbing Photo: Felicia Terry - warming up on "first born&quo...
Felicia Terry - warming up on "first born&quo...

Comments on First Born Add Comment
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By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Jun 17, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There are 8 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with chains on this route. It is located between Grumpy After Eight (5.10a) and KGB (5.10b). Look for the prominent chimney up high. Stemming to chimney to face climbing - there is a nice variety of climbing at a moderate grade. Note - bolts are on the outer portion of the chimney and difficult to reach if you get too deep into the chimney.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Initially when starting this route I was thinking, "why bother" but as it turns out the chimney section is really fun. (it reminds me of The Sport Chimney in Calico Basin/Red Rocks)

It's a nice route addition for the grade. Not many warm ups or moderates in Atlantis.
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 24, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Some rope drag on the top due to placement of anchors. Great route.
By alexfrenchfries
Nov 24, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Short, but interesting climb with different sections. Leading it is definitely tougher than top roping it. As other climbers have noticed, the bolts are on the outer portion of the chimney, so don't get too comfortable tucked inside the chimney. At least for me, it felt like a long reach to the bolt. Also, because of the sections, taking a long lead fall might mean you could hit something on the way down. 8 bolts to anchor. A 60m rope easily covers it.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 11, 2010

This is a good climb. It has variety and the chimney in the middle makes you think a bit since there is what feels like a run out between bolts. If you just climb up then traverse right to clip the bolt off good holds, you will see that it is a little heady but very do-able.
By Edmund Kao
Apr 24, 2013

The chimney contains loose rock. Be careful not to knock a rock down on your belayer. I would recommend that belayers were helmets (as always), and stand as close to the wall as possible to avoid getting hit.

Extending the anchors using a cordelette or long draws can dramatically reduce the rope drag on top-rope.
By Toby Wehler
From: Chicago, IL
Apr 5, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Really enjoyed this route! After climbing at the pond last week, this was a nice change of pace from climbing another pocketed face. Seemed easier than other 5.8s in QCC, though I haven't climbed Bunny Slope for crag comparison.

@Edmund - thanks for the headsup on extending the anchors, definitely helped for the TR.
By Phil Sakievich
Jul 30, 2015

This route is pretty awesome. Great lead, and super fun to get a bolted chimney. I think it's a must do if you're coming to Atlantis for the first time. I didn't notice any notable loose rock in the chimney as of a the last couple months.

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