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First Blood 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jul 6, 2015

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Pulling up into the first crack. It’s pretty muc...

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Description 

This decently long, moderately pumpy climb is a great warmup for the main Bunker fare or a worthy objective in its own right. The yellow granite and flaring crack systems it follows are reminiscent of the free climbing high on El Cap. Expect mantels, handjams, and athletic, pumpy liebacking. The cruxy start detracts slightly from an otherwise excellent, moderate line.

Begin with a balancy mantel onto the detached block at the base of the wall. Reach a set of big, flat holds in the slanting break, and then rail traverse left to better footholds and the first diagonaling crack. Cruise this flare to a good rest in the pod, and then lieback and jam up the fun parallel cracks to another good stance. Follow another crack system past the final bulge to the top.

Location 

This is the third bolted line from the left on the West Face, beginning near the very top of the broad, sloping ledge. It is easily identified by a pair of diagonaling handcracks, about two-feet apart, midway up the route.

Protection 

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor, currently all fixed except for the first bolt. A stick clip is recommended.


Photos of First Blood Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux ends with a leftwards rail traverse to re...
The crux ends with a leftwards rail traverse to re...

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