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First Blood 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: Nathan Scherneck on May 27, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: First Blood (left crack).

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  • Description 

    Starts semi-wide with decent cupped jams in deep. Slims down to good hands and intersects with a 1" arcing crack on the left before the final semi-wide section. No mandatory OW technique necessary. Fun jamming.

    Location 

    Immediately right of Mush Maker.

    Protection 

    Pro to 4". Chain anchor.


    Comments on First Blood Add Comment
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    By geoff georges
    From: Seattle, Wa.
    Oct 14, 2014
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This makes Inca Roads feel like a 5.7
    By Andrew Davidson
    From: Everett, WA
    Oct 12, 2015

    Ha, Yes. I'll second that this makes Inca Roads feel like a 5.7
    I could of easily used three #4s for this climb. Still a fun climb though.
    By RodrigoB
    Sep 4, 2016

    Much of this crack was too big for my fists making a bit of offwidth technique absolutely necessary. Does everyone else just have gigantic hands? I thought this climb made Jam Exam feel quite easy. Still fun. It's worth bringing a couple of 4" cams along for the ride.
    By Michael T Young
    From: Seattle, WA
    Oct 24, 2016

    I don't recommend leading this with just one #4. I walked a 4 and a tipped out 3 90% of the way up and had to clip two bolts on the adjacent sport route to keep it from being stupidly dangerous. Super fun route though!

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