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First Blood 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mikel Cronin
Page Views: 1,471
Submitted By: t.schwartz on Oct 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Eric tastes First Blood

Description 

Multiple cruxes throughout the route with great rests, culminating with a sick undercling to a slopey right hand move passing the ninth bolt, one more gas move passing the tenth bolt (previous anchors), then slab climbing on amazing black rock to the anchors...a MC classic on bullet proof rock, hard to beat. Fourth route from the left.

Protection 

11 bolts


Photos of First Blood Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Reggie climbing a route at Big Picture Gully
Reggie climbing a route at Big Picture Gully

Comments on First Blood Add Comment
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By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Aug 25, 2011

This was listed in the old guide as 12b to the original anchor below the black rock. My opinion is 12c with or without the extension. Also note that the 'extension' is now the only route - the old anchors were removed. This applies to all the routes here that received extensions. Some of them got much harder so do not rely on the old guide grades.
By R.Walters
Aug 5, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Not all the routes that received extensions had their original anchors removed. SWTWC and Armageddon still have their old chains because the extensions are far more difficult. I agree 12c on 1st Blood to the old anchors. There's a move passing that spot now, but it's not as hard as anything lower on the route.

This wall is absolutely brilliant.
By Gneiss Yeti
From: Denver, Colorado
Jul 21, 2015

This is the most fun thing on rock. Simply amazing rock and beautiful movement. The extension just adds to the quality of the climb. Brilliant
By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 14, 2016

As a pure and beautiful line, it is a shame it was squeezed so hard by neighboring routes.
By The wellhungarian
Oct 17, 2016

As far as our "squeezed " routes go we bolt em that way so we can climb them two at a time. We achieve a higher level of fitness this way as well as crowd the walls faster to avoid climbing next to someone who wants to complain rather than just enjoy.
By w.elliott
May 31, 2017

This thing is so good, and easily the hardest 5.12c I've ever been on. It felt like Predator climbing into Sucking My Will to Live (for all of those front rangers). I think it's a shame that the route fabricators didn't drill those holds a little further away from the other routes. I understand the goal of high-fiving your buddy while he is sending the route next to you, but I don't have friends, so it makes me lonely...Next time please make your independent lines more spaced.

(My tongue-in-cheek comments need should be more over the top to be obvious...)
By lee terveen
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
May 31, 2017

W. Elliott I don't know if you've drilled pockets before but you have no idea what your talking about.. Every route on this wall is el natural and filed perfectly. Route establishers deserve compliments not your bull shit conclutions. routes in spearfish will share holds here and there but if the lines are worthy they are equipped. You obviously still climbed the route and called its stellar so why critsize about crowding? Did you climbed the routes left or right of first blood? They are equally as good or better and your saying they shouldn't be equipped because a bolt is to close to you while climbing which ruins your experience. Well then your in the wrong spot. Go home. Keep your bolting ethics to yourself and realize you wouldn't be climbing shit in spearfish if it wasn't for locals and them putting out a guide book. Route establishment isn't easy and your criticism does nothing for walls that are already bolted. We just climb in South Dakota. And it seems like you just bitch in Colorado. Hater!
By Mikel Cronin
May 31, 2017

W. Elliot First Blood is 100% natural line. Obviously you have never established a route on pocketed stone but it requires that that pockets be comfortized rather than skin rippers. I can count on both hands the amount of manufactured holds out of the 700+ routes in Spearfish Canyon and those were done in the early 90's when that was more the norm than today. First Blood was the first route at the Big Picture Gully and I feel one of my best contributions to the canyon. So when a person posts false information I get a bit defensive as do others. Glad you enjoyed the route but keep your negative and inaccurate BS to yourself.
By BBQ
Jun 2, 2017

I just ate a troll for breakfast. And now I am going to go climb a route that I just bolted in Spearfish Canyon. YUM! YUM! Tasters Choice!

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