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> Sky High Wall
First Amendment
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 6
votes
Routes in Sky High Wall
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First Amendment T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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I Don't Want No Scrub T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Never Alone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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On the Fence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Saratoga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Second Amendment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Second Helping T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Solar Grace T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Solo, Gracias T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | September 11, 2015 Mike Prince |
| Page Views: | 801 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Oct 3, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Very good, sustained friction climbing. Be careful to scope your line, as there are several places where a misstep in either direction can leave you stranded from further progress.
Climb up and left along the subtle ramp to its end, then move up and right. Follow bolt line to easier slab, then go up to a shallow vertical crack, climb it to its end, scramble up easy slab to an overlap, through this at a right-angling vertical crack to a wide horizontal crack. Knobs and plates take you up the final bit to an alcove bounded on both sides.
NOTE: a second pitch was added, but it goes beside some very large, loose blocks and is not recommended. If you have a single rope, lower from the highest bolt (just a few feet below the ledge) to the midpoint anchor of Second Amendment, belay your second, lower him/her to the same anchor, and rappel from there.
Climb up and left along the subtle ramp to its end, then move up and right. Follow bolt line to easier slab, then go up to a shallow vertical crack, climb it to its end, scramble up easy slab to an overlap, through this at a right-angling vertical crack to a wide horizontal crack. Knobs and plates take you up the final bit to an alcove bounded on both sides.
NOTE: a second pitch was added, but it goes beside some very large, loose blocks and is not recommended. If you have a single rope, lower from the highest bolt (just a few feet below the ledge) to the midpoint anchor of Second Amendment, belay your second, lower him/her to the same anchor, and rappel from there.
Location
This is the leftmost bolted line on the "Second Amendment Wall" aka Sky High Wall. It lies about 10' right of the dirty steep gully bordering the tall, steep slab. Look for a subtle, shallow, left-rising ramp ending about 10' up the slab.
Protection
12 QDs, single set of cams from .3" to 3". Most of this is bolt-protected, but a few sketchy moves require trad gear for protection.
As with NOTE above: a single rope CANNOT reach the base from the ledge or the highest bolt. You must rappel to the midpoint anchor of Second Amendment with a single rope.
Most parties choose to traverse right to the Second Amendment anchors after doing the good stuff below. While enjoyable, the rest of the climbing above the wide horizontal is relatively trivial. Note that on the first ascent, we climbed a second pitch via the right side of the alcove, but the start of it is moss-covered (and often wet), and the pull around the alcove leads into a section of large, loose blocks. As these are 160'+ above the base of several popular climbs, we chose not to include it in the description. There is a plausible looking pull out the left side of the alcove that may avoid the danger, but it's hard.
As with NOTE above: a single rope CANNOT reach the base from the ledge or the highest bolt. You must rappel to the midpoint anchor of Second Amendment with a single rope.
Most parties choose to traverse right to the Second Amendment anchors after doing the good stuff below. While enjoyable, the rest of the climbing above the wide horizontal is relatively trivial. Note that on the first ascent, we climbed a second pitch via the right side of the alcove, but the start of it is moss-covered (and often wet), and the pull around the alcove leads into a section of large, loose blocks. As these are 160'+ above the base of several popular climbs, we chose not to include it in the description. There is a plausible looking pull out the left side of the alcove that may avoid the danger, but it's hard.
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