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Firewater Chimney T 
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Firewater Chimney 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Sutton and Karen Roseme, November 1992
Page Views: 9,200
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Holden flies up the variable chimney and stemming ...


This remarkable route chimneys and stems between the inside of the Arrowhead flake and the main face. Varies from 2+ to maybe 5 feet wide. Great position and continuous climbing make this a classic. Rappel 90+ feet from bolts down the outside face of the flake. A little runnout between the bolts, but you are always in a secure position, even if moving up can be strenuous at times.


6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos of Firewater Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The massive Arrowhead Flake, The Last Stand heads ...
BETA PHOTO: The massive Arrowhead Flake, The Last Stand heads ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yeeeewww! Firewater Chimney
Yeeeewww! Firewater Chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Shore in the Firewater Chimney 5.10b
Richard Shore in the Firewater Chimney 5.10b
Rock Climbing Photo: 6ft. below first Bolt Climber:Gregory Turner Photo...
BETA PHOTO: 6ft. below first Bolt Climber:Gregory Turner Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to get to the second bolt. Firewater Chimne...
Trying to get to the second bolt. Firewater Chimne...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kaleem Khwaja stretching out the triceps after the...
Kaleem Khwaja stretching out the triceps after the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gregory Turner Stepping and Stemming up Firewater ...
Gregory Turner Stepping and Stemming up Firewater ...

Comments on Firewater Chimney Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 9, 2017
By Murf
Apr 23, 2006

What a wild and distinctive route! The whole Arrowhead is such a excellent feature.

Third bolt is in a very odd position, but overall as Randy's sez, its all there.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Jan 12, 2009

Classic! There isn't a 5.10 move in it, but the climbing is very sustained with some good rests here and there. It's mostly wide and airy, with some tighter, more secure climbing climbing at the top. Excellent rock quality too.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
May 27, 2010

Wow! This is one way sweet climb. Airy, scary, and runout. I thought the crux was past the 4th bolt, but the entire climb was out there. Well worth the hike!
By Phil Esra
Dec 10, 2010

Much harder at 5'6" than at 5'9"+
By Josh Golden Eagle
Mar 6, 2011

Is this sport, trad or mixed? The title says trad. The comments say 6 bolts.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Mar 11, 2011

Well you don't need anything but quickdraws if that's what your asking. But I have no idea if the first ascent was done ground up or top down. It would be interesting to find out though. It would take calves of steel to hold some of the stems long enough to drill.

In any case, I wouldn't go into it with any expectations of it being a "sport climb". It's not quite "R" but it's guaranteed to get your heart pumping.
By Richard Shore
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

At 6'3", I was able to straight leg chimney nearly the entire climb, stemming wide for only two or three moves. This is probably the easiest 5.10b in the park, if you know how to chimney and have the leg strength to endure the hour-long approach. As much as I hate to downgrade a route, I'd have to uprate 100 others if this is really.10b.

I'll give it the ambiguous "5.9+"
By Josh Higgins
Jan 6, 2014

The anchor is on the other side of the flake. Top the flake out (it's easy) and look on the other side.... I was looking around for a while assuming I was missing something.
By Tradiban
Mar 10, 2016

Worth the hike, unfortunately unless you climbing 5.12 not much else of high quality to do in the area.

Beautiful feature with very unique to JT climbing. I'm 6ft and found it pretty easy albeit slightly run-out. I found that you can get more comfortable by going deeper or further out depending on your height. Being comfortable with chimney is helpful. Easier than the chimney pitches on Epi in RR (5.9).
By J Kazu
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 6, 2016

At 5'8" I had to use full body stemming for much of the lower half. Some of the bolt placements force you out to wide, less secure positions.. with bad fall potential. The chimney pitches of Epinephrine and Steck Salathe felt casual in comparison for what it's worth. It's a classic though, a must do if you enjoy chimneys and are confident at the grade.
By rafael
From: Berkeley, CA
Mar 9, 2017

please reconsider chalk use on this climb, its in the wilderness, and the white chalk really mars the beauty of the red streaks. Its sad to hike hours to the middle of nowhere and see the evidence of excessive chalking on such a beautiful piece of rock... I have sweaty hands, and I know the struggle, but I managed to keep the chalk to a minimum, so you can too!

Also, the third bolt is in a bad place, if you are under 5'9" its going to be a pain to clip. I can see someone who is over 6 foot tall finding this climb easier than 10b, and someone 5'2" seeing it as 5.11d

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