REI Community
Samazar Valley
Select Route:
Firesword T 

Firesword 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Emma Alsford, Paul Donnithorne (AL)
New Route: Yes
Season: Between October and April
Page Views: 348
Submitted By: Emma Alsford on Oct 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Emma Alsford on the descent 'ridge scramble' along...

Description 

A nicely sustained climb throughout with no real cruxes. Really varied and on immaculate quartzite. Guidebook description:
Another superlative route with four varied, immaculate pitches up cracks and corners in the golden pillar. A fine companion to Brisingr, starting as for that route.
1 60m 5b Climb up to the small tree to gain the slab on the right. Some tricky moves gain and climb the crack in the orange side wall of Brisingr, which leads to a final steep move up a flake to gain ledges at the top. Continue up to a belay by a shallow groove right of a block.
2 40m 5a Climb the shallow groove, moving right into a wide crack and trend rightwards up cracks to a ledge and tree belay.
3 40m 5b Ascend the big crack steeply and its left-hand fork, to a point on the left side of the golden pillar near Brisingr. Move right along a break and continue up the face rightwards to a good ledge below the final upper corner. This is 3 metres left of a large vegetated corner to the right.
4 30m 5b Move up a steep flake/crack and the black stain for 10 metres, passing a black spike, to a traverse right into the steep corner/chimney which is followed with sustained interest to the top.

Location 

Located on the Main Wall at Dragon Buttress, only a 10 minute fairly level walk from Tamdakrt at the bottom of the Samazar Valley. The golden 'sword-like' pillar feature can be seen from Safinah and The Fortress (but not from the approach Samazar Valley track).

Protection 

A standard 'Morocco' trad rack i.e a good set of cams up to size 4, maybe also some hexes useful, and plentiful slings for extending runners. No fixed gear in the route - a pleasant ridge scramble off right to descend.


Photos of Firesword Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The last and 4th pitch of the stunning Firesword, ...
The last and 4th pitch of the stunning Firesword, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Firesword Area at Dragon Buttress. Firesw...
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Firesword Area at Dragon Buttress. Firesw...
Rock Climbing Photo: Emma Alsford on the fourth and final pitch of Fire...
Emma Alsford on the fourth and final pitch of Fire...
Rock Climbing Photo: Emma Alsford on the third pitch of Firesword, on t...
Emma Alsford on the third pitch of Firesword, on t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Statton on the first pitch of Firesword 5.10b...
Paul Statton on the first pitch of Firesword 5.10b...

Comments on Firesword Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About