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Fireside Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tim Martel and Justin Preisendorfer 8/2000
Page Views: 602
Submitted By: M Sprague on May 10, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Preisendorfer's original topo for the IME new rout...

Description 

from Preisendorfer - "The best line there in my opinion is Fireside a two pitch 5.10 that exits out the right side of cave. The best way to climb this route is to bivy in the cave and have your belayer drinking coffee in their bunny slippers while you climb up and left(sic) from the firering. As soon as you break out of the first roof you gain an amazing hand crack that you follow to the top. Watch for a OLD pin that was probably the bail anchor from the 1920's era exploration. I believe that Lincoln O'Brien and crew traversed in from the right to get there because I'm pretty sure he didn't crank out the roof!" See Preisendorfer's Topo #3 from the IME New Route Book

Location 

The very right hand edge of the big overhangs on the right hand side of the Main Wall. Starts right of the fire ring.

Protection 

Trad rack with lots of hand sized cams. Two raps with a single rope will get you down. There is a communal bolted rap/lower anchor up and a little to the right. Please use it and avoid topping out so the top of the cliff doesn't get beaten up. There is a lower anchor directly below, beneath the bulge, that will get you to the ground.


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