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Strone Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Akahi T 
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 
Cersei T 
Cost of Business T 
Creaking Plank S 
Firefly T 
Gods and Monsters S 
Itchy Scratchy T 
Kiss the Sky T 
Le Rap Et Tap T 
Mad Calf Disease T 
Major Tom T 
Minotaur T 
Mr. Bad Luck T 
Nimbus S 
Old Habits Die Hard T 
Orbital Decay S 
Rear-View Mirrors S 
Red Gorilla S 
Road to Recovery T 
Space Cadet T 
Starstruck T 
Tyrion T 
Wealth of Nations T 

Firefly 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: JS, Janie Saviers-Steiger, Sept. 2012
Page Views: 894
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jul 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Firefly (blue) Routes branching off Firefly: ...

Description 

This fine adventure awaits for any trad team beginning to work through the grades: It has a fair amount of scrambling, but parts have great exposure that rivals that of most other BCC 5.6's and there are enough tricky moves to engage the 5.6 leader. Since Firefly reaches the very top of Strone Crag, it can be used as an alternative (and maybe slightly more difficult) way to start Standard Ridge. Firefly should rise to three stars as more folks do it (yes, this is a bait and switch -- I put three stars on it so it comes up using the three-star search parameter). Expect some looseness, minor but worthy of a helmet.

(1) Face climb past three bolts, staying right on the cleaner rock to broken ledges (this used to be the first pitch of Kiss the Sky, but retrobolted for the 5.6 leader). Scramble up ledges to a face with two more bolts. From the second bolt, diagonal left into a shallow corner on the arête. Climb the shallow corner to a nice crack that gains Brunch Ledge (don't pass up any pro and use runners to reduce drag). Belay from bolt anchors and a hand-size cam about 10 feet right. 125' 5.6.

(2) Traverse left off of Brunch Ledge, using one of the bolt anchors for pro, and climb to another bolt. From here, there are a number of options, all fourth or very easy fifth class. If you're not interested in climbing to the top of Strone or continuing on Standard Ridge, one possibility is to stay as near to the right side of the face as comfortable and climb to the chains on top of Mr. Bad Luck. If interested in continuing to the top, um, continue. 125' (75' if to Mr. Bad Luck's chains) 5.6.

Location 

Once the ledge cutting across Strone's northwest face is gained on the approach, walk east for about 120 feet, well past Starstruck and the bolted lines of Cersei and Tyrion. After the trail slopes down, narrows, and enters a well-shaded area, look for three bolts above. The route starts by standing on a small rock protrusion.

Descent: If descending from the top of Strone Crag, work your way maybe 40 feet to the west to the anchors (there are actually two sets of them) shared by Starstruck, Kiss the Sky, and Mad Calf Disease. See the Starstruck page for the descent options from here. If descending from the Mr. Bad Luck'’s chains, rap (70'’, mostly free-hanging) to a break that can be walked to Brunch Ledge, then rap again from the bolt anchors on Brunch Ledge (a 70 meter rope will reach the ground, but shorter ropes will require a third rappel from another rap station about 45 feet off the ground).

Protection 

Trad rack, singles of everything from small stoppers to a 2-inch cam, long runners.


Photos of Firefly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Firefly.
BETA PHOTO: Start of Firefly.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just about to Brunch Ledge.
Just about to Brunch Ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Down low on the first pitch.
Down low on the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Janie on the first pitch, clipping the third bolt.
Janie on the first pitch, clipping the third bolt.

Comments on Firefly Add Comment
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By zoso
Jul 30, 2015

3 stars for the grade. Can't think of many 5.6's in BCC that have this kind of exposure. Only did the 1st pitch, but used micros to #1 camalot.
By Tim G.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 27, 2016

The first pitch is great. The second pitch only has one awesome move right off the chains with huge exposure. The rest is 5.easy scrambling with not a lot of options for pro. I had to build an anchor by slinging a huge block. You also can't see the chains at the top of Starstruck while on the ridge. Luckily another party was climbing Starstruck and I could see their helmets pop up about 25 ft below where I built the anchor. The view from the top was worth the climb even if the climbing wasn't great.
By climberboy
Jun 25, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The description for how to get here is lacking, so I'll add my version. Park by the waterfall going under the main road. From there, take the trail off the right side of the waterfall going toward the challenge wall. Keep taking the right trail when it forks so that you stay moving across the slope instead of up toward the climbing. Eventually the trees will clear out and you'll find yourself in a scree field with the wall high up above you to the left. There will be two rock pile walls that look inviting - do NOT go this way. I went that way and ended up with some class 3/4 scrambling. Instead, continue on the trail and it will curve up and left immediately after the stone walls. Follow the short switchbacks all the way up until you can gain the narrow trail heading back East along the base of all the routes. Should take about 10-15min if you're on the right path.

As for the route itself, I only did the first pitch, but it was really fun. Ended up taking the crack variation to the right instead of the arete out left and it was enjoyable. My only complaint is that the 1st pitch anchors are in a REALLY bad location. I'm 5'10" and I could barely reach them by leaning out over a huge drop off. I don't know why they couldn't have moved them over and down a foot or two... My partner is 5'1" and it would've been extremely difficult for her to set up the rappel on her own.

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