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Firefly Engagement 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FFA: Andrew Riley, Equipped by: Tyler Hoffart
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Andrew Riley on Apr 4, 2015

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FA of The Firefly Project (Firefly Engagement 5.12...

Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks contact Technical Climbing Club Myanmar (TCCM) for more information MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A hard proud route. Climbs vertical 5.11, to easy and somewhat loose slab, to a proud, hard, exposed, continuous 5.12 crux that is essentially three boulder problems in a row with marginal rests to clip the bolts. Get ready for geometric climbing and compression on slopers and pinches with a few jugs and crimps thrown in as well. Finishes with a very exposed panel to the anchors hanging at the highest point on the wall. The rock in the crux is some of the better rock on a rather loose wall.

Location 

Up the biggest baddest section of Fire Wall, number 8 on the Fire Wall topo photo.

Protection 

Bolts, carabiner anchors. Unlike most of the routes at Firewall, this route is not missing any bolt hangers because the first couple of bolts are glue-ins. I would recommend extending the first 5 draws and also the 7th: It's not absolutely necessary, but it helps with clipping the last bolt and anchors.


Photos of Firefly Engagement Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Firefly Engagement' is number 8 on the Fire Wall ...
'Firefly Engagement' is number 8 on the Fire Wall ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Projecting The Firefly Project
Projecting The Firefly Project

Comments on Firefly Engagement Add Comment
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By Andrew Riley
From: Yangon, Myanmar
Jun 11, 2015

This thing is hard! I put 5 days into it in the past couple of months, and I almost found my way through the last of the crux this weekend. Maybe next time.
By Andrew Riley
From: Yangon, Myanmar
Aug 15, 2015

Finally got the FA of this line today! After getting completely rained out on our last trip up to Mandalay, I sent it on my 8th day on. Named it the Firefly Engagement to honor Tyler Hoffart's original name Firefly and also because I was projecting this route when I proposed to my fiance at the monastery at the top of Waterfall Hill.

As for the grade, I think it's harder than any other 5.12c I've sent; however, I think the FA process of finding the beta, cleaning and chalking the holds, etc. Usually makes the route seem harder, so let's go with 5.12c for now.

Overall, not the best quality line in the world, but great for Mandalay and great for Myanmar. Get on it, and get ready to take some whippers!
By Steve Davis
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 16, 2015

Great work Andrew! I hope it sees a second ascent before long. I think people tend to underestimate the difficulty from the ground, because the wall looks so featured.
By Andrew Riley
From: Yangon, Myanmar
Aug 17, 2015

Thanks Steve. I think you're right, and I would also love to see more of the harder climbs at WFH getting a little bit more love in general.
By Tyler
Mar 26, 2016

Oh gosh what a gem. Congrats to Andrew for taking it down. How about that exposed finish, ey! So wild and so much fun. Bravo!
By Andrew Riley
From: Yangon, Myanmar
Mar 30, 2016

The finish is so rad, made me want to pee my pants every time I climbed up that last panel to the anchor.

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