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Firecracker Crimps 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C PG13

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown, likely 1980s
Page Views: 296
Submitted By: Christopher J Simpson on Mar 25, 2012

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(Update 5/17/15 - The left hand crux gaston crumbled off, so the line will likely be harder.)

Fun pulling on painful crimps. With great feet through the difficult moves, it's really a hand-beta challenge. Find the answer that makes the most sense for you!

Start on low jugs just right of tree stump, pull up through painful crimps to crux triangular flake above head-height. Gaston up left and finish on jug above the big horizontal shelf, or continue through to top.


On the tall smoother part of the left side of the wall, look for a line of crimps just right of a stump, that lead up to the left end of the prominent, left leaning slopey shelf.


Single pad.
(Or a whole squad of spotters for the 25-foot topout.)

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 26, 2012

I don't remember that this was done bitd, so it may be a new route.
By Joe M.
Mar 27, 2012

Seems too obvious to be new. I thought it was a touch harder than V5, though I wasn't killing it the day I tried it...
By Christopher J Simpson
Mar 28, 2012

I would agree that it seems too obvious to be new. Joe, give it a rating and we'll see where the consensus falls. I was thinking it was harder 'til the quick send, so I wouldn't rule it out...
By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 28, 2012

I wonder if something broke in the last few years, making a better hold, because I remember it being quite a bit more desperate before. We'll have to see if Whitey remembers. He certainly would have been able to do a tweaky V5 or 6 back then. He said he will try to make up some topos of this and the main crag for us. Did any of you guys top out yet? : ))
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Sep 11, 2014
rating: V5 6C

This climb is awesome and the topout wasn't bad at all. Just tall.
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 17, 2015

Unfortunately the high left gaston of the crux section broke off on me today. I got it ("Oh that's not bad"), got my feet up and was going for the shelf and then it crumbled and I was tumbling down the hill. It is going to likely be quite a bit harder, probably requiring a backstep dyno from the triangular hold below
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 22, 2015

Anybody been able to repeat this since the break?
By Christopher J Simpson
Nov 19, 2015

No, Mark! That's a shame. I'll be out there in the next few weeks and I'll let you know!
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Nov 24, 2015
rating: V5 6C

Sweet! DYNOS!

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