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Firecracker Arete 

Hueco: V3+ Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 8'
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 516
Submitted By: Jesse Coburn on Aug 5, 2008

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Description 

A powerful problem that starts with the right hand low in the crack, that runs straight up the boulder. Left hand on a small edge on the arete. Use real good feet to power up to a positive crimp. Move left foot to a bad, but sticky foot. Bump right hand up in the crack (crux for me). One last throw to a sloper and the "business" is done. Then top out on good slopers.

Location 

Valley boulder on the face that faces the trail. Right hand in the crack and left on the arete. One step left of Firecracker.

Protection 

Pad and a spotter would be nice for the last move but not necessary.


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By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Nov 30, 2008
rating: V3 6A

Sit start right hand in the crack with a good right foot. Pull up, heel hook the arete, and pinch with your left hand. Bump up the crack, then move up the arete to a good crimp. Slip a toe into the crack and stand up to the sloping topout jugs. Hard for the grade.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Feb 21, 2012
rating: V3+ 6A+

Or, start with your right hand in the crack, left on an undercling-ish hold low on the arete, left foot backstep on the hold below your right hand, and basically lay back the crack for 3 moves. Then reach for the sidepull on the arete, bump right hand, grab the lip and top out. Maybe not approved beta, but works.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Mar 5, 2012
rating: V3+ 6A+

Here's my unapproved beta (starts at about 2:25):

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 25, 2013
rating: V4 6B

Let's be honest, this is not v3...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
May 7, 2015
rating: V4 6B

I climbed this route as Lanky describes. I agree with Christian, this thing is certainly harder than V3! A good climb though!
By Graham O.
Jul 30, 2016

Agreed. I climb v7 and this thing has shut me down every time I've tried it (2 sessions). Send will come soon, I hope. The beta in the video involves matching, with my lack of jamming skills I would never be able to pull that off!
By Graham O.
Sep 26, 2016

Haha yes! Finally sent! Not the best problem but worth doing once if you are really bored :)

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