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Fire Stone 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Dale Fleshman and Jim Yoder August 2004 FFA: Michael Roy and Sam Sluys July 2010
Page Views: 711
Submitted By: MichaelR on Jul 20, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Iron Oxide is the crack in the center of the pictu...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This route has been a long time in the making. Story has it Andy Fitz installed the anchors back in the early 90's and then lost interest. Fast forward a few years to 2004 when Dale Fleshman and JIm Yoder led the rig calling it 5.10b/C2. The line finally saw an attempt but once again was dismissed. It is now a fully equipped route ready for laps! I can't believe it took this long for the route to see a proper send. I looked long and hard at the top hoping it would not need bolts but after serious consideration and consultation I decided to get the drill. It really is a good route and should get better with traffic. The climbing starts with some generic crack climbing to a ledge (same one as wildcat). From here gain the finger crack (which protects well with small to medium nuts) and climb this to the horizontal break. Once you leave the horizontal break get set for the bolted portion of the climb which involves shallow stemming, smears and edge work with your feet while crimping edges, pulling on the arete and using the crack (when you can) for your hands. Fun!


Crack to the right of Iron Oxide and the left of Wildcat.


4 bolts and Gear to .75 inches with a red camelot (or similar sized unit) for the bottom will get you to the chains. Heavy in the small to medium nuts.

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By MichaelR
Jul 20, 2010

I guess the route name has to do with the fact that a Fire Stone tire was found at the base and not the color of the rock.
By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 1, 2011

Good to know a bolt was added at the top, I considered leading this on RP, crack isn't all that good of rock up there though...I liked the use of my legs too much to give her a go=)

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