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Fire Roasted Starfish 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Garhart and Garman Spring 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on May 29, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The pillar and routes

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Splitter that narrows from 1.5 inch to red C3's with a flared thin hands pod below the chains. Pretty licheny on the FA but we brushed the hell out of it so it should be better and will improve with more ascents.

Lots of good finger locks with the crux up high where it thins down.

Location 

To access this splitter you have to climb either Short Loin (recommended) or Braised Ribs and do a bit of class 4 shenanigans. The class 4 traverse from Short Loin is protectable with a #3 and #4 camalot. Upon arriving at the splitter you can build an anchor with 1.5" and 2" pieces.

Protection 

Doubles from red C3's-1" with extra 0.75". 2 bolt anchor. One double rope rap will put you on terra firma.


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By Kelsey Sheely
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 2, 2013

After doing this and Blood Sausage on top rope, I have to say that this one seemed much harder for my smaller hands.

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