Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Jam or Slam Rock (SW Face)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amionit TR 
Cranking Skills or Hospital Bills T 
Fire or Retire T 

Fire or Retire 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Randy Vogel and Randy McDonald, 1979 Direct Finish: C. Miller, 1999
Page Views: 1,193
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
"Fire or Retire". Photo by Blitzo.


Hidden from view until almost at the base, this route on the southwest face is located in a sunny and sheltered spot which is perfect for those chilly days.

The climb is identified as a left-facing vertical corner which is jammed, liebacked and stemmed to a horizontal three-quarters of the way up. The original finish cut right in the horizontal but a newer bolted finish straightens out the line. A lot of variety is packed into this climb which makes it well worth a visit or two.


pro to 2", 2 bolts, anchors

Photos of Fire or Retire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A No Hands Rest at the Crux of "Fire or Retir...
A No Hands Rest at the Crux of "Fire or Retir...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tara working through the crux section.
Tara working through the crux section.

Comments on Fire or Retire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Great climbing, worthy of all the stars in Randy's new book.

The gear is quite fiddly and strenuous to place, so definitely a heads up lead. There are good gear placements when needed, but the crack is often flaring so the are plenty of bad placements to be had as well.

Do the direct finish, but stay just right of the bolts. I got suckered left of the bolts and made it harder than need be.
By Charles I.
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2009

Ya heads up on the gear and just keep an eye out for the flares.
By G Frisby
From: Orange, CA
Dec 31, 2014

as of December 28, 2014 the two bolt anchor is, in my opinion, only a one bolt anchor. the second bolt/hangar is ancient, super rusty, and spins freely