|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Randy Vogel and Randy McDonald, 1979 Direct Finish: Chris Miller, 1999|
|Submitted By:||C Miller on Jan 1, 2002|
|Comments on Fire or Retire||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great climbing, worthy of all the stars in Randy's new book.
The gear is quite fiddly and strenuous to place, so definitely a heads up lead. There are good gear placements when needed, but the crack is often flaring so the are plenty of bad placements to be had as well.
Do the direct finish, but stay just right of the bolts. I got suckered left of the bolts and made it harder than need be.
By Charles I.
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2009
|Ya heads up on the gear and just keep an eye out for the flares.|
By G Frisby
From: Orange, CA
Dec 31, 2014
|as of December 28, 2014 the two bolt anchor is, in my opinion, only a one bolt anchor. the second bolt/hangar is ancient, super rusty, and spins freely|
From: Oak Park, CA
Jan 18, 2017
|same anchor bolt/hanger is still ancient rusty spinner scrap metal. possible to back up the other one good anchor bolt/hanger with medium cam and very long extension|