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Fire Bomb 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,011
Submitted By: Patrick O'Donnell on Apr 28, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Fire Bomb

Description 

Start immediately right of B-Gizzle on some face holds. Clip 2 bolts on the start of the face. Move into a steep layback crack and clip the 3rd bolt. Game-on from here. Move into the crack as it transitions back to the right. Go for it doing a sporty move to clip the 4th bolt or optionally place finger size gear to protect the move. Clip 4th bolt and stay focused for a burly awkward layback crack move that requires footwork and balance. Stand up and place a blue TCU/green alien and do a final easy move to gain the ledge and anchor of B-Gizzle. clip a bolt and long sling on anchor of B-Gizzle.

Move above B-Gizzle anchor and clip a high bolt. move into a steep layback crack crux and clip another bolt (7th and last bolt). Gain a stance and place a piece of gear. Continue placing gear (up to 2") up a steep 10+ crack finish just left of "Flame Thrower". Lower off.

Location 

Right of B-Gizzle. Left of Flamethrower. Could be considered an alternate start of B-Gizzle with a new extension.

Protection 

Mixed. 7 bolts plus gear to 2". Mostly small gear.


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By Patrick O'Donnell
Apr 28, 2014

Really fun route and clean. Others that have climbed it seem to like it. Great addition and low hanging fruit. Can't believe no one has done this route before.
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Sep 5, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Thanks for your work in putting this one up Patrick, as well as others in the canyon. I think the crux sequence on this route felt harder than anything of a similar grade on the wall. An orange Metolius TCU fits perfectly in the pod between the third and fourth bolt. Middle of the route 5.11 crux is really cool and balancy, with super fun cracks to the anchor. Classic!
By Patrick O'Donnell
Sep 7, 2014

Consensus seems to be 12a on this one.

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