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Prada S 

Finnish Dwarf 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Townsend and Amy Wicks, 3/2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: Todd Townsend on Mar 25, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo

Description 

Climb up and right on some cool, low-angle, white quartz. After gaining a small bulge, hook back left to reach the ledge that cuts diagonally up and right across the face. Bust a boulder problem off the ledge (crux) and continue up the upper headwall to the anchor.

Although this route is bolt protected, the bolts are a little more widely spaced than on a typical modern sport climb. Rest assured, the climbing is easy relative to the crux, and the harder moves are well protected. Use caution on the quartz as it is a little flakey. I tried to clean off any obvious loose bits, but there may still be some crunchiness.

Location 

Located to the right of Prada. Lower off.

Protection 

7 Bolts. Mussy Hook Anchor.


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By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 25, 2015

Nice, looks like another fun climb. What are temps like up there now? Do you want sun or shade.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 25, 2015

Thanks!

You can pretty much climb everything right now. A little warm in the sun, a little chilly in the shade. Dress appropriately and go get it!
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 17, 2015

Good climb!

It felt more like 5.8 to me, but 5.9 to my wife who is shorter than I.There is a right undercling starting the crux that is shrubby, a little trimming might be in order...Thanks for the routes, Todd!
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jun 14, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

fun climb. both, em and I thought this was easier than prada.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 15, 2016

Cool, glad you enjoyed it. I also thought Prada was tricky the first time I climbed it. Later, I figured out a different sequence at the crux that felt much easier for me. Different strokes for different folks, I guess. Thanks for getting some traffic on this route.

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