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Finnegan's Whiskers 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,026
Submitted By: John Barkhausen on Oct 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


In the Guide, this climbed is called "Unnamed", but we thought it was way to good to go unnamed, so we named it. If you disagree, let us know and we'll change it back.

Start chimneying between the main face and a short block along a thin finger crack until you can stand on the block. Then, gain a long, winding flake that creates a crack that goes from hands to fist, through a blocky off-width and back to small hands to finish. There's a thin, .3 Camalot sized, finger crack just left of the main crack. Move through a tight squeezing, long reaching, hands roof to a two bolt anchor.


Directly right of No Beggin'. There is a small plaque that reads "5.10" at the bottom.


Camalots; triples .3s, doubles 1,2,3, singles of .5,.75
Metolious TCU; yellow, blue

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By 303scott
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Despite some loose rock in the middle, this is a quality route. The perfect hands v-slot roof finish has great exposure and interesting movement. We belayed with a 70m rope no problem. A 60 won't reach the ground, but might reach the top of the first pillar.
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Nov 9, 2013

Incredibly varied. Not a typical IC splitter. I really liked this climb.
By John Barkhausen
Apr 17, 2015

As of 4/2015; the large pillar right at base of this climb has fallen. Now, instead of starting with a mellow chimney with a thin-fingers option, this climb gets going right off the ground. I think the grade is still accurate, but now it's just a little more sustained.
By Jeff McLeod
Oct 10, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This route was fun with some strenuous cruxes near the top and some tough liebacking right off the ground. I elected to take the thin 0.3-0.5 camalot crack to the left of the flake to start, because the most accessible part of the flake looked a bit crusty and loose to place pro in. That said, after a few moves off the ground you can stem or hand-jam out right into the flake and feel very secure.

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