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YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ed Esmond 5/01
Page Views: 1,790
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Tom stemming his way up to the anchors


Hard. I found it to be hard for an 11a. However that's a little refreshing since many Rumney 11as are a little soft. Just show up with your A-game and it will rock you like a hurricane.

Start behind the birch tree on the steep wall. Climb bouldery moves on underclings and sidepulls to a super tricky and somewhat sandy couple of moves to the midway ledge. Here you can rest off the pump then move left and up into a left leaning corner. Stem your way up the corner using some hard to find holds and on to the anchors above.

As with a few of the routes at this crag, some spots can be sandy but over all it's nice quality and fun moves.


Just left of the super steep (and classic) Stoned Temple Pilots (5.11d). Start behind a birch tree and crank.


8 bolts to anchors

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By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jul 27, 2009

I agree that it felt hard for an 11a. I think the awkward sandy topout at the top of the first section was the harder part. Otherwise, the opening power moves are tons of fun, and the stemming and laybacks near the top were classic. Definitely worth doing.

It is possible to set up a toprope for this one after doing niceland (10a) to the left, but you have to put draws on most of the bolts as you belay down, then unclip them as you climb.
By Tom Gnyra
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

hard for 11a, for sure!
By S. Neoh
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Very good route. Crux is short. Upper corner is really nice.
To me, this is one of the top 3 .11a at Rumney.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Oct 14, 2014

Clipping the third bolt (I think it's the third bolt) above the overhang is not easy. After a stretched-out reach, I had my left hand on the infamous "sandy hold." (SPOILER ALERT: potential on-sighters stop reading here.) However, I was told that there is a kneebar that makes this section easier. Darned if I saw it. Anybody know anything about a kneebar on this route?
By S. Neoh
Oct 15, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is near the top of my list for a redpoint! Grr.
No, Nick, I did not find a knee bar below the ledge on this one.

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