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Daff Dome, South Flank
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
14 Karat S 
Alimony Cracks T 
Alimony Cracks, right T 
Fingertips S 
Great Circle, The T 
Guide Cracks 1 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 2 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 4 T,TR 
Guide Cracks 3 T 
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Prespiration T 

Fingertips 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Bruce Morris, Bill Taylor, Tom Judson, 8/1973.
Page Views: 2,200
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Nick leading Fingertips

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb past 2 bolts, then move right past two more and up a flake to a two bolt belay.
A 5.10a pitch moves left and up past two bolts then right past another bolt, then up to a two bolt anchor.

Location 

For more complete information, get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.

Protection 

Draws.


Photos of Fingertips Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the slippery blankness.
Looking up at the slippery blankness.
Rock Climbing Photo: Headed to the 1st belay
Headed to the 1st belay
Rock Climbing Photo: start of p2
start of p2
Rock Climbing Photo: Cathy Dececco TRs the first pitch of Fingertips.
Cathy Dececco TRs the first pitch of Fingertips.

Comments on Fingertips Add Comment
Show which comments
By M. Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 17, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

With a name like "Fingertips", I was expecting a fingertip crack, which is the furthest from the truth! This is a super-polished, scarcely-protected face climb. Even on toprope, this felt insecure and delicate. I can only imagine how it must feel on lead!
By Carquinez
Dec 5, 2007

The start is about 30 feet to the first bolt. Long run with potential grand fall, so be careful. It's only about 5.8 but can be intimidating. This is classic Tuolumne, polished and clean with exciting runouts that aren't too bad in comparison to other climbs in the region.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Feb 2, 2009

In terms of gear, a couple of wires doesn't hurt for the first pitch. On the second pitch, a large cam is nice for the double wide cracks that finish off the pitch. Without one, you're looking at a good 40' runout to the anchors, maybe more.

An awesome climb.
By Cory Harelson
From: Boise, ID
Sep 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Really fun face climb. I led the first pitch of the 5.10a standard route and then toproped the 5.10b direct variation. The bolts are spaced out a bit and the climbing is sustained on thin dime edges. My fingertips actually started bleeding from crimping too hard on the sharp edges while toproping the direct variation. The direct was steeper, but the edges felt a little more positive (although the positive feeling may have been partly due to the toprope).
By Keith Forest
May 23, 2010

FA Info:

The direct variation was done by David Rubine and Don Mealing in 1981 in stance and was called March of Dimes. The name was derived from the fact that Mealing had just broken his foot on another Toulemne route and had to jug the route after Rubine to clean it.

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