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Fingertip Traverse Of Josh 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Alan Roberts, John Hayward
Page Views: 380
Submitted By: Sean on Apr 18, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: The Vogel Guide (1992) describes climbing the arch...

Description 

Start up past a right-slanting diagonal to gain a thin flake, then up along the right side of the latter, until arriving at the start of the right-slanting fingertip traverse. Good thin gear up til then. Some marginal thin gear across the traverse. Then a vertical handcrack to the top. Anchor bolts atop adjacent Two Guys On The Wrong Climb to climber's left, with slung beefy rap ring. FTOJ is on the north face of the northern most section of Pep Boys Crag, visible from the Playhouse/Cathouse pullout. (Note: the route as drawn in Joshua Tree West starts further to climber's right, to somehow gain an upper leftward arch marked by an unprotectable hairline seam over lichen covered coarse grains that looks untraveled, which connects only to the midpoint of the above described fingertip traverse, as in one would end up doing only the latter half of that traverse. Probably mis-drawn in book.)

Descent 

Rap, or a roundabout walkoff down backside first and then toward the road.

Protection 

Thin to 2", gear anchor or traverse to climber's left to rap anchor atop adjacent Two Guys On The Wrong Climb.


Photos of Fingertip Traverse Of Josh Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fingertip Traverse Of Josh.  Apr 2016.
Fingertip Traverse Of Josh. Apr 2016.

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By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Apr 19, 2016

what about the left start in the arch lieback?
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Apr 19, 2016

that sounds like the start of Two Guys On The Wrong Climb (5.10c) to adjacent left, as described in JT West: "Begin in an easy right-leaning arch left of FTOJ...." but yeah, either start would connect to the full fingertip traverse
By Matt Himmelstein
From: Orange, California
Nov 18, 2016

I will second the PG rating. I did the lower arch and there was good protection there, then I sunk in a solid cam at the corner, but could not get in anything solid on the diagonal traverse section (a 00 Met popped). I fell testing a placement at the next corner and hurt my foot on the big pendulum swing, so I didn't finish the route. The rating seemed fine, but the pro was not great. It was fun right up to when I whipped, however.

As for the left arch start, my '92 Vogel guidebook says "Climb up to and follow the left side of a short Gothic arch, Traverse right for its top, then go up."

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