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Fingers Traverse 

Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Peter Beal?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Peter Beal on May 21, 2013

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Sit start down and right at an obvious incut by a small corner. Head left across crimps to the crack and finish on the arete.


A couple of pads.

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By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
May 24, 2013

Peter Jones showed me something similar to this. I will allow him to speak for himself though.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Nov 2, 2013

The holds at the start were completely untouched and required cleaning. I strongly doubt anyone else had done it.
By Chris Beh
Nov 4, 2013

Peter, I first climbed this traverse in the mid-'90s with Colin Lantz, it had chalk on it and had obviously been climbed. But we weren't low balling a sit start and climbed it with a standing start on the right. It's plausible nobody else has groveled through the sit start, though. Otherwise, on Flag, I just assume something as obvious as this has been climbed, and if that ascent was in the '70s, the holds might not seem like they had ever been used 30 years later.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Nov 4, 2013

I assume that if something that obvious had been climbed it would have been updated in any number of available forums online and in print. The "lowball sitstart" that I "groveled" through is actually good climbing on the best line and had no prior signs of human contact, odd for a fairly popular wall. Old school bouldering priorities aside, sitstarts to traverses were not exactly common anywhere in the '70s. So many people say, "Oh yeah Holloway (or Karn, or whoever) did it back in the day..." and then it turns out they didn't.
By Chris Beh
Nov 5, 2013

No offense, Peter. I appreciate your efforts to find quality climbing and the way you share it on Mt Proj. I typed "grovel" with tongue planted in cheek. Assumptions are often wrong. And that is what is great about a community site like this, you can reach out to see who knows what about the history of stuff. This is a classic case of designating something as a "first known ascent". There have been plenty of climbers in Boulder over the decades who might have climbed a problem like this. But because it wasn't a tall, proud, "up" problem they never thought to claim an FA. Or maybe they just assumed it had already been climbed because it is pretty obvious and safe. Keep cranking!
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Nov 5, 2013

Thanks, Chris! Believe me, I am not concerned about getting credit for 2.5 "new" moves of climbing. Flag is almost unique in the way in which obvious undone "up" lines (Cryptic Magician for example) have been assumed as done somewhere back in the day when it was clearly not the case. I am working on multiple double-digit independent lines up there that have not yet been done. Incredible but true.

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