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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,411
Submitted By: mschlocker on Jan 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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The first bolt at the start of Fingerrip can be se...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


A couple of bolts lead past tricky climbing to a finishing manlte move. The climb is slippery and the crux down low. Be solid at the grade if leading so you don't pitch before you make the first clip.


Starts on the far left side of a large ledge on the Main Wall. Right of The Crack of Dust, scramble up to this ledge (10'). The climb starts just left of The Owl Crack. Consider using it as an approach pitch for Never Intended (5.10b).


A couple of quickdraws for the lower section. The first clip is kinda high and hard to reach. Be careful. Some gear is likely to be found before the mantle. Had to bail right due to a TR in the way, so I can't say exactly what the gear will be.

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By RockyR
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 17, 2011

TR'd. I love the beginning of this route. Finding little edges for my feet and balancing my body to move to the left side of the rock. I did not think I could figure out my own little sequence as I thought I may be too short for this climb! I am so glad I took the time to really look for the little footholds and finger crimps. Definitely worth doing if there's already a top rope on The Owl.
By Brad W
From: San Diego
Oct 18, 2011

Encountered a rattly block (toaster oven sized) near the top of this, on the little ledge before you finish up. Since it's on a pretty popular climb in the gorge it'd probably be gone already if it was truly loose, but figured a chalk X couldn't hurt. I would definitely avoid putting pro in behind it if leading.
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Aug 17, 2012

Yes, the first move the the first bolt is committing, but truly moving to the anchors is pretty runout past the second bolt. Pitching off the last move will result in a pretty serious fall and there is absolutley a spot for a .75/.5 Camalot before making this move which wouldve left me much more confident.
By Brett Shumate
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 11, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Moving to the anchors is definitely runout. A red C4 fits well in the crack before the last move. You can also keep from falling off the ledge if you do pitch before the first bolt by placing a 3.5 or a 4 in the lower section of the Owl crack before heading up. Exciting lead!
By steverett
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 8, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If you're leading w/out gear, the upper runout will be less scary if you go around to the right at the top (finish on The Owl) instead of straight over or left; still runout but much easier climbing

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