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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ray Van Aken, Ivan Weeks, and Curt Kreiser, June 1947
Page Views: 2,301
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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leading the second pitch! Boom shackalaka!!!


Do the easy (3rd and 4th class) first two pitches of Fingertip Traverse. From the large, brushy ledge system, climb the large, left-facing corner directly to the right of the Fingertip Traverse lieback. This 130’ long pitch involves some face moves and liebacks, with good rests between the hard moves. Above the crux, the dihedral arches to the left, with easy but insecure traversing on low angle rock. A 4th class pitch leads to Lunch Ledge.


standard rack

Photos of Fingergrip Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Z Man on the traverse over to lunch ledge,Cool und...
Z Man on the traverse over to lunch ledge,Cool und...
Rock Climbing Photo: almost to lunch ledge
almost to lunch ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: starting off on first pitch of the grip ! First no...
starting off on first pitch of the grip ! First no...

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By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

As with Guideline #1, I'm not posting this to be a jerk. Consider it essential beta for the route (no offense, page author)....

The first pitch of Fingertip Traverse DOES reach Jungle Ledge in one single pitch (175'). Set the belay near the base of the next pitch for 'Fingergrip' (don't move all the way right on Jungle Ledge or you'll find yourself climbing 'El Camino Real' .10a!). 'Fingergrip' can be done in a full pitch (200'). This gives you 10' of rope remaining when you reach the oak trees, just slightly below Lunch Ledge (which joins with the upper pitches of 'Fingertrip'). Make sure you place slings on pro placements for this pitch or you'll have a bit of rope drag. Also, take care to place gear for the follower when traversing the arch in the last 35' to the trees. Move the belay to Lunch Ledge (20' up and left by simuling). From Lunch Ledge, essentially head straight up steep ledges to the finishing slab above (lone single bolt protects the last 50').
By Tradiban
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A little gardening and no pro coming out of The Jungle, but it shapes up quickly, fun if you've done all the other moderates on the wall.
By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
May 25, 2014

From the top of the first pitch of Fingertrip, the best of Fingergrip can be accessed. Heading straight for the upper part of the left-facing dihedral, you will see a dwindling finger crack with a piton in the midsection. Clip the piton and step right on steep slab. Leaning into the dihedral as you let go of the finger crack, there will be a moment of freedom from any hand holds, then you are in the dihedral and moving up. Spicy and fun! Not recommended with anything less than a 70 meter, as it was definitely more than 200 feet to a good belay point. No need to simul to the lunch ledge if you have a 70 meter as the top can easily be reached from the belay atop Fingergrip. Three pitches, bottom of Fingertrip to top of the mountain makes for a nice adventure with no hassles.

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