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Central Ridgeline, including Ship's Prow
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Curving Crack 
Easier Reach 
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Finger Ripper 
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Stack This Crack, Jack 

Finger Ripper 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,347
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 30, 2001

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Richard Reed on Finger Ripper.


Climb on the very small crimps and sidepulls to the right of Ship's Prow Left and to the left of the curving crack - this lovely crack is off for this fun balancy problem. If you don't rip your fingers on the first small and second smaller crimp, or the small undercling (which some actually use in their sequence, myself included) then you'll might just have some fun pulling on the opposing sidepulls before reaching the jugs.


Pad and a spotter is nice for the harpack flat landing. Topout is very easy highball.

Photos of Finger Ripper Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ getting started on Finger Ripper.
JJ getting started on Finger Ripper.
Rock Climbing Photo: Back in March of '05, I gave this a try.  Deff har...
Back in March of '05, I gave this a try. Deff har...

Comments on Finger Ripper Add Comment
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By Andy Mauk
Oct 16, 2002

[Awesome] route. The [crux] is so much fun. But be careful topping out, because the top is really narrow and you could go off the other side.
By Jason Metzler
Apr 11, 2005

This route is great, fun balancy moves at the bottom, committing crux move and highball topout on huge jugs. Very good route. Probably only a V2 though.
By Colin Erskine
From: Madison, WI
Jan 30, 2006

I tried it but yeah... I need a spotter and a crash pad. I worked most of the moves and was able to do it but it took some balls without any protection.
By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Dec 2, 2006

V4-5 if you are vertically challenged....
By Ricky Newman
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 11, 2008
rating: V3 6A

None of these pictures are accurate in showing Finger Ripper. The proper route avoids the crack completely, using the two crimps on the face that are basically in line with each other (the lower one being much better than the higher). Move off of these crimps to the sidepulls located near the top of the lower face. Pull those feet up and commit for the bomber edge above.

For reference, yes, the two pictures are of Ship's Prow Right, while the "good form" picture is of another Standard Route on the Ship's Prow. This climb moves up from the undercling in the Curving Crack, out to a 3 finger crimp, and then up through the roof off of a fairly bomber sloper/sidepull.
By Brett Billings
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 7, 2013

In case anyone needs a reference:
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 3, 2013

Mark Wilford showed me an interesting variation to this problem. Instead of reaching for the high RH side-pull, use the upside down undercling hold for your right hand about 6 inches lower. Very tricky and fun, give it a try!
By Brett Billings
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 4, 2013

I'll have to try that. I've used that hold as an intermediary thumb catch on the way to the RH sidepull but have never gone up from it.

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