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Finger Mill 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dan Seeliger - Spring 2012
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: Patrick Mulligan on Feb 13, 2013

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Description 

5. Finger Mill 5.11b 70 m
1p: 5.10a, 20 m. Follow a right-facing dihedral finger crack to bolted anchor.
2p: 5.11c, 20 m. Continue up the finger crack through roofs to bolted anchor.
3p: 5.11b, 20 m. Follow bolts up and slightly left into right facing dihedral. Once you pull out of the overhanging dihedral clip a bolt. Don’t continue up main dihedral. Move left onto a slopey ledge and up past another small roof protected by another bolt and finish on a thin finger crack. Great exposure over last roof before top.

Location 

see topo

Protection 

Gear: a full rack, extra 0.5 to 1 camalot.


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By Patrick Mulligan
Feb 13, 2013

While Dan rated this 11b, The crank off of a very high undercling and tenuous stem to a jug at the crux felt like a solid V4 move. While this move was definately the crux and the rest of the route was a grade or so easier, calling this 11b or 11c felt like a sandbag to me. There's a bolt at your waist here, but that move is BURLY.

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