REI Community
The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Light T 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 
Aloof Roof T 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 
Comic Book Heros T 
Command Performance T 
Do or Dive T 
Doan's Pills T 
Excellent Adventure T 
Finger Love T 
Gutterball T 
High Wire T 
Into The Wild T 
Nuclear Crayon T 
Quaker State T 
Raise Hell T 
Shit Hook T 
Stab in the Dark T 
Step and Fetch T 
U-Haul T 
Wailing Wall T 
World War Z T 
Zombie Woof T 

Finger Love 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: Matt Westlake on May 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Finger Love


Fun face and crack climb alternative to the corner offered by Doan's Pills. Hike up the slab to the face and start working your way up the central vertical crack. Moderate moves take you to an interesting crux bulge that guards the final 10 feet or so before getting into the traverse. If you have enough small gear it protects quite well and is probably aidable if necessary.

Look out for the loose brick lodged midway up the face, not sure if it'd come loose but it wobbled when I stepped on it.

Topping out the vertical crack leads to a second "mini pitch" of totally different character. Make a burly traverse, finagling your way out right to the exit corner. Probably good training if you are eyeing Zombie Woof...

Has a lot in common with Doan's Pills, so see that page for related beta.


Atop the landing where Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do, Stab in the Dark, etc top out.

Rap down via slings at the corner at end of the traverse or top out and hike to several other options (Golden Earring station, various gullies).


Standard Moore's stuff - small to mid-size for the face. For the traverse .75-2 sizes suffice but big gear may work too.

Comments on Finger Love Add Comment
Show which comments
Jun 22, 2012

Look here for a good route picture of Finger Love. It provides an excellent view of the route.

I would recommend leaving the helmet at the belay if you brought one up. The traverse is much simpler without the bulky plastic encompassing your head.

I just wish it went for a few more pitches!
By smurray47
Sep 19, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If this route was longer, would be 4 stars! Makes a great second pitch of Breaking Rocks, much more interesting than Doans Pils.

Climbing beta: finger crack starts off with a nice comfortable angle, that gradually steepens towards the top, as the crack also gets thinner until it's just tips. Crux is the last 4-5 moves from the crack section up to the roof where it's pretty steep and feet aren't so good. Gear is good enough that falls from the crux should be really clean if you're placing well.

Gear beta: Small stuff for the bottom, big stuff for the traverse. I think I used 3 cams in the double 0 to 1 (mastercams) range, and another 3 in the 0.3 to 0.5 (BD C4) range for the first section. I was really sewing it up though, and you could probably use nuts or just less pro if it's a more comfortable grade for you. For the top section, a couple cams in the #2-3 range (BD C4) will protect the traverse just fine.

Belay/Descent beta: Most comfortable belay is about 10-15 feet climbers right of the rappel rings, using a crack system that eats up stuff from 0.5-1 BD C4. Rappel rings are in an awkward spot to belay from, but get you down easily to the top of Breaking Rocks. Rappel anchor is typical Moore's slightly sketch, a lot of old tat slings threading some rock, and an ancient ring that has been backed up with a slightly newer link.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About