|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 75'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Matt Westlake on May 13, 2012|
|Comments on Finger Love||Add Comment|
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Jun 22, 2012
Look here for a good route picture of Finger Love. It provides an excellent view of the route.
I would recommend leaving the helmet at the belay if you brought one up. The traverse is much simpler without the bulky plastic encompassing your head.
I just wish it went for a few more pitches!
Sep 19, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
If this route was longer, would be 4 stars! Makes a great second pitch of Breaking Rocks, much more interesting than Doans Pils.
Climbing beta: finger crack starts off with a nice comfortable angle, that gradually steepens towards the top, as the crack also gets thinner until it's just tips. Crux is the last 4-5 moves from the crack section up to the roof where it's pretty steep and feet aren't so good. Gear is good enough that falls from the crux should be really clean if you're placing well.
Gear beta: Small stuff for the bottom, big stuff for the traverse. I think I used 3 cams in the double 0 to 1 (mastercams) range, and another 3 in the 0.3 to 0.5 (BD C4) range for the first section. I was really sewing it up though, and you could probably use nuts or just less pro if it's a more comfortable grade for you. For the top section, a couple cams in the #2-3 range (BD C4) will protect the traverse just fine.
Belay/Descent beta: Most comfortable belay is about 10-15 feet climbers right of the rappel rings, using a crack system that eats up stuff from 0.5-1 BD C4. Rappel rings are in an awkward spot to belay from, but get you down easily to the top of Breaking Rocks. Rappel anchor is typical Moore's slightly sketch, a lot of old tat slings threading some rock, and an ancient ring that has been backed up with a slightly newer link.