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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Finger Locks or Cedar Box 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,803
Submitted By: Kris Landell on Nov 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (165)
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Heather leading Finger Locks or Cedar Box

Description 

This route is really a variation of Northern Pillar, but is an excellent aim for 5.5 as its own route. Climb the finger crack with the small tree in it - the tree is off! Past the tree, head either left to the Northern Pillar bolts, or wander right to merge with other routes to the right, such as Triple Bulges.

Location 

About 25' right of Northern Pillar.

Protection 

G pro. Rap station at top on a pine tree.


Photos of Finger Locks or Cedar Box Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: classic beginner crack
classic beginner crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger Locks or Cedar Box
BETA PHOTO: Finger Locks or Cedar Box

Comments on Finger Locks or Cedar Box Add Comment
Show which comments
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 24, 2010

I think this is a great climb for someone breaking into the grade. No route finding, some thoughtful moves up the crack and some thin moves on the face. It protects well.
By SketchySam
Sep 7, 2010

This is quite possibly one of my favorite moderate single pitch routes at the gunks. I'm a crack lover and it's rare to find a nice cruiser splitter like this at the gunks.
By Heather Selitrennikoff
From: East Coast
Sep 17, 2010

As a beginning leader, I thought this was a fun albeit short crack with no surprises.
By Ben Brotelho
From: Albany, NY
Dec 14, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Great beginning leader climb...grade is spot on (might even be 5.4...), gear is plentiful and very obvious, and it is a fun crack!
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Jul 22, 2014

Super nice crack lead, its no harder than 5.6, if you have any idea how to hand jam. Well worth it , even though its so short.
By Ryan M Moore
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jun 14, 2017

Really fun crack with actual crack climbing technique. I can't think of a more well protected climb at the grade in the Gunks(any grade maybe). Found it very, very easy (less difficult than most 5's at the gunks) although on anything sub 5.8 I find the difficulty of any move is directly correlated with how far above the last solid gear I am. As for the strenuous gear placement comment, what better way to break into trad than falling on the bomber gear below you while you're trying to place. I would have whipped on any placement on this route, and I could have placed almost every foot if I wanted. I'm a terrible coward on gear and I don't feel uncomfortable once on this route.
By Chris Mamas
From: Runnemede, NJ
Jul 29, 2017

This would be a classic If it were longer and the it didn’t have a tree growing out of it.

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