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Mammoth Crest
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Finger Locking Good 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Barry Hutten, Greg Barnes 2001
Season: July-September
Page Views: 1,709
Submitted By: J. Albers on Jan 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: The route begins in the center of the photo at the...

Description 

Fun mixed bolts and gear route finishing with a nice 5.8 finger crack running through a clean slab. Beautiful views and solitude.

Pitch one:
Climb past two bolts (5.8) to a section requiring gear. Next, wander past 4 more bolts (5.8), then a bit more gear, and finish with three bolts (more 5.8) to a two bolt anchor with rap rings at a great, spacious ledge. (9 bolts plus gear; 165 feet).

Pitch two:
Traverse left from the anchor, then climb up for 10-15 feet until you can traverse back right above the belay to a nice finger crack. Follow the very nice slabby finger crack (5.8) upwards to the next belay at two bolts with rap rings. You need to switch cracks towards the top of the pitch moving first left a bit and then back right. Very nice pitch that protects well with small nuts and cams. You can probably climb straight up from the belay to the finger crack, but there would be no gear. The way I describe above protects well and seemed like the obvious way to go. (gear; 80 feet)

Descent:
Rappel the route with two ropes. If I remember correctly, there was an additional set of rappel anchors half down and to the right of the first pitch. This would probably facilitate rapping the route with only one 60m rope, but I am not sure.

Location 

When you reach the talus/snow field at the top of the approach, head left for quite a ways to find the start of the route. I will try and post a photo marking the beginning of the route because Mammoth Crest is quite a large cliff.

Consider getting a copy of Mammoth Area Rocks (Lewis and Moynier) for a nice set of photos detailing where the route is located on Mammoth Crest and a topo of the route.

Protection 

Bring draws, including long draws to reduce rope drag. Thin cams to a #2 Camalot equivalent.


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By RussellG
Aug 7, 2012

There are rap rings about 90 feet up just to the right of the bolts on a small ledge so that you can rap with a single 60 mtr rope.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

overall a pretty good route. didn't use anything bigger than a #1 camalot. thin nuts and cams helpful! approach 45 mins/2mi to base of mammoth crest and another 10 mins for 1/4mi to start of climb (at a moderate pace).

p1- don't expect 9 bolts in a row. you get 2 bolts at the start, then a longer section of (mostly) thin gear, then 4 bolts (right around the first anchor station), then more gear, then 3 more bolts. it's a long pitch unless you stop and belay at the first station.

p2- don't expect a stellar, continuous 5.8 finger crack (west crack or south crack in tuoulumne). looking up from the belay of p1 (2nd belay station), you'll see a seam going straight up. a few feet to the left is another seam that has some excellent, intermittent finger locks. it's rather improbable, but fun. i angled left and up toward the crack from the anchor. easy climbing, but ugly fall potential. a bit higher up is a right trending rail that leads to another upward 'crack' to the anchor. i thought this pitch was technically easier than than p1.
By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

great climb with epic views. 1st pitch was my favorite. fun face climbing onto the arete and back to the slab. 2nd pitch hand crack was intermittent but fun and great gear. only used cams on 2nd pitch. short and quick. can easily do a couple routes up there to make it more of a day. 45min approach then 15min traverse.
By timmaly
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 28, 2014

Climbed this yesterday. Great climb in an awesome setting. It has a distinct alpine feel - some loose rock, no chalk marks and lichen growing on parts of it - despite what looked like new bolts. P1 is very well bolted with a few stretches of gear placements. The finger locks on P2 are sweet. Definitely go left off the P1 belay. One or two committing moves to reach the crack but not that bad. It's a slog to get up to the Crest but well worth the effort. We used a 60m rope and did three rappels. There is an intermediate bolted rap station halfway up the first pitch in an alcove by a tree. It's climber's right of the bolt line and easy to miss when climbing. But it's clearly visible from the base so I would suggest spotting it before starting up.

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