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Finger Lockin' Good 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Jay Dautcher - 1985
Page Views: 9,228
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Dec 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (144)
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Working through the crux section of Finger Locking...


A classic amongst classics.

If you love finger cracks don't pass this one up. Crank a couple of burly moves, off the deck, to get up to a slight ledge. Continue following the jagged finger crack using smears on either side for feet to another rest. Fire past the crux and up to a ledge. Now face climb up to and past a cave to the anchors.

Bask in your glory. You are the man/woman.


At the beautiful finger crack just to the left of Jay Walker. You can't miss it...


You can get away with just finger sized cams on this...maybe two sets if you want to sew it up. This route eats up green, yellow and red aliens. Leave the slings and nuts. Rap anchors at the top.

Photos of Finger Lockin' Good Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: G Poodle
G Poodle
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave.
Rock Climbing Photo: The business district.
The business district.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the upper crux
Pulling the upper crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger Lockin' Good 5.10b/c, April 2008
Finger Lockin' Good 5.10b/c, April 2008

Comments on Finger Lockin' Good Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 24, 2016
By david goldstein
Dec 1, 2006

This pitch's popularity belies the 1-star rating as do the three stars (out of three) the guidebook gives it. It's not very long, but it is a sweet crack and for the TWall, a soft touch for the grade.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 2, 2006

David G. is right, my personal star rating was unfairly skewed by the fact that my technique is just not up to this route! I've bumped it to two stars and also noted that the Cragger gives it a three-star rating.
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Dec 30, 2006

If it were longer this route would be four stars. Perfect finger locks and great gear. I thought that there were good rests (for a 10b finger crack) for placing pro. I would suggest bringing some very small wires for the top section, the climbing eases but the pro gets thin.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

In 1992 I dislocated a finger on this route. Fingerlocking on good pods, I stepped up high and reached for the next lock. My foot cut from the smear and I was downward bound. Rather than pull my fingers and take a fall on my gear, I instinctively tried to hold on. Silly me. The finger-locks did hold, but when my center of gravity had dropped 3 feet onto two knuckles it was more than they could bear.
By Rob Dillon
Jan 18, 2007

Ouch! That's one of my reals fears about crack climbing ( along with peeling with my foot stuck).

If someone were to cut those slings out of the cave, we'd have a real classic on our hands here. After all, how many other routes on 90' cliffs end arbitrarily just because someone found a thread?
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Has anyone actually done the finish? The book says to stay on the face, but there's also a dihedral right above the crack...
By 426
Mar 8, 2007

There are new anchors at the very top of the cliff now...
By Jay Perry
From: Chattanooga, TN
Apr 4, 2007

Bailing at those slings is definitely weak sauce, the top part is fun!
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Dec 4, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Y'all can stop complaining and worrying...the slings are gone. There are now a set of rap rings a little ways above them. As was mentioned...
By Marne Z
Feb 15, 2011

Absolutely fantastic.
You can still bail to anchors on the right at the cave, but the face climbing at the top is fun. It's a wholly different type of challenge and an exciting one on lead: the gear is there, but far less obvious. The finger crack is near-perfect.
By Cpn Dunsel
Mar 19, 2011

Four stars when done to the top.
By runout
Oct 15, 2013

I can't tell how to finish this route. Once you finish the bottom finger crack and get to the small ledge, there is lots of chalk going to the right and through the unprotected face and ends at Jay Walker anchors . The face is easy (~5.9) but is unprotectable and is about 15-20 feet in length. However, Rob Robinson's book says to go up and to the left, but it looked mossy and I wasn't sure how to climb through the dihedral safely because there wasn't anywhere to put pro.
By Blake Allen Green
Nov 8, 2013

Go left out of the hueco and straight up. Make sure you have good gear in/around the hueco, as you go about 10' before you find a worthwhile .75 C4 in a horizontal. Then pull some more edges to the anchors.
By Gable
Oct 13, 2014

Gear beta for the upper face.

Just left of the bottom of the Hueco are solid placements for a purple Mastercam and a medium nut. It might not be a bad idea to place both since I believe you're above thin gear at that point. 10'-12' higher up is a horizontal that takes a perfect .5 bd and that was my last piece before the anchors. The upper section is about 5.9 face climbing and was a little bit dirty but still highly recommended.
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Dec 22, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

As you leave the hueco you can slide a micro in. It removes the run out aspect.
By James Dowdy
Mar 24, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Beautiful route - still, it's closer to 10a...and, I *never* downgrade Rob's routes!

Have fun!


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