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Finger Jockey 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Townsend and Amy Wicks, 3/2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 766
Submitted By: Todd Townsend on Mar 10, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo

Description 

Scramble up blocky ledges to the first bolt. Continuous, techy, low angle climbing gets you through two bulges/mini roofs and up the right facing corner to a surprisingly easy 3rd roof. The crux is moving past the 7th bolt.

Location 

Look for the line of bolts between Blue Steel and Catwalk. Lower off with a 60m rope.

Protection 

11 Bolts, Mussy Hook Anchor.


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By Milo
Apr 9, 2015

Super fun one.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 9, 2015

Thanks, dude!
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 17, 2015

Another fun route! The hero jug and perfect foothold at the first roof are exceptional! The crux is interesting, as well. Thanks Todd and Amy!
By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Oct 16, 2015

Good fun route.

Here's a fun variation. Start up the first 3 bolts of Catwalk. Then on continue straight up to the anchors of Finger Jockey on a TR. About the same rating with some fun moves. You will pass a small bush half way up.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 17, 2015

Funny you mention that, James. Originally, it was my intent to follow that exact line. However, those other guys put up Catwalk before I had a chance to do it, so I was forced to move the start further left. Regardless, I still think it turned out ok.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jun 17, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

really fun route, pretty tightly (over?) bolted. would make an excellent beginner's route if one can get to the first bolt (easy steps) without falling. not sure where the 5.9 comes from, i'd go with 5.7. merman has harder moves, so does downtown man...

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