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Reynolds Hill
Routes Sorted
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Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 
Barf Bucket Traverse T 
Black Starr Chimney T,TR 
Bloodletting T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Climbs of Passion Exit T 
Coffee Grinder T 
Connecticut Yankee T 
Cosmic Debris T 
Fat Man's Demise T 
Finger Grinder T 
Fist Crack, The T 
Glenda's Chimney T 
Howling T 
Hug Jombo T 
Hung Like a Horse T 
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 
Intergalatic Bong Rip T 
K.P. T 
Klink T 
Labyrinth T 
Maiden T 
Matron T 
Moor's Crossing T 
Peach Cobbler T 
Penis Dimension T 
Pooh Corner T 
Robert's Rectification T 
Serpentine T 
Sky Line T 
Spatial Relations T 
Time Quake T 
Tombstone Crack T 
Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Finger Grinder 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Garson & Jeb Schenck, early 1970s
Page Views: 1,392
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 12, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Just left of Climb and Punishment, start by slogging up a wide crack with jams at the back. The second half of the route is the money (crux), because there's section of rock that involves climbing a finger crack and stemming on crumbly crystals. Certainly it is not the most remarkable route on the formation; however, it is right next to Climb and Punishment. If you're with a big group and don't want to cool your heels by waiting around, then take a rope and head up this thing. The most peculiar part of the climb was the exit. I was unable to easily squeeze through the gap between the rocks at the top of the pitch (it would have involved a serious exhale), so I did a short funky/crumbly traverse to the left and set up the belay on boulders.

Descent: there are bolts visible down a gully and to the climber's left. One rope'll get you down.


Bring a standard rack for the V except no Big bros are required. There is no fixed protection.

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By Jesse Ryan
Sep 15, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I liked the route. Some typical V'd style flared, wide, groveling in the beginning, but relatively easy thanks to the curtain flake on the left. Up high, I found the finger crack crux protected well and thought the rock was pretty good, not that scaled or crumbly, and involved thoughtful moves. I'm pretty skinny - but not terribly so and fit through the final flare easily for a nice belay up near the highest flange or rock. Rappelled off via Glenda's Chimney.
By a Ball
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2014

Personally I thought this route was a total blast. Granted I am total wide crack (and crack in general) gumby and I followed this pitch, but I had fun. Three sections: flared crack grovel, thin finger dihedral (def. crux for me), and short but very tight squeeze chimney right at the top. The biggest climbers will have trouble getting into the squeeze chimney - some may not be able to fit. We rapped from the top of Glenda's.
By The Blueprint Part Dank
From: FEMA Region VIII
Sep 22, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I really felt like this was significantly harder than either Pooh's Corner or Climb and Punishment, both of those routes feel like accurate 5.9s to me, but Finger Grinder was significantly more difficult. Now, I think this is due to two factors, one, being that I have huge hands and fat fingers, so the finger locks were super tight for me, a couple were almost unusable. And two, the rock quality on the faces surrounding the crack was just utter garbage with lichen and loose, sharp crystals. A good route if only as a change of pace from your typical wide grovel, but it was still a bit of a grovel, just a finger-ey one.
By Jeb Schenck
Apr 19, 2017

First ascent was by John Garson and Jeb Schenck in the early '70s.

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