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Finger Fusion 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Doug Berry/ Charlie Fowler
Page Views: 846
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Sep 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Going up.... Left foot is on the loose block.

Description 

The first half of the climb is the crux. It has good fingers and feet up the whole thing, and it has good rock. I wish it was longer!

Location 

This is the fifth climb from the left. It is just to the right of the OW corner, up the obvious finger splitter.

Protection 

Few finger-size pieces and nuts.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Sink 'em.
Sink 'em.

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By Jason S.
From: Durango, Co
Oct 4, 2011

Look out for the loose block in the middle.... It seems well chocked, but it still moves a bit.
By Musty Dusty
Apr 15, 2013

Enjoyed this climb as I thought it added a nice mixture of techniques: finger jams, fist jam (one), a stem, and even a little bit of a face climbing. The rock in the middle is still loose as of 4-16-13, but it should be fine. If you like this route, make sure you try Rancho Deluxe as well.
By Nick Niebuhr
From: Telluride, CO
May 21, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The crux for me was from above the block to the top. It gets pretty thin. Small nuts and C3s are all that will fit up there. That block feels loose if you knock on it but doesn't seem like it'll come out anytime soon.

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