|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||eDixon Dixon on Sep 25, 2009|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Finger Fun||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Mike Munger
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 21, 2011
|The tips crack on the upper half of the first pitch is quite enjoyable but when combine with the loose rock and poor protection between the two drilled pins on the first half I can only give it a couple of stars and I didn't do the second pitch either so I can't comment on it.|
By Princess Mia
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This is a two pitch climb and it is accurately rated at 5.11!!!
Pitch one -- 35 meters -- 5.10 -- excellent finger crack. The beginning protects with two pitons and one can add a couple of purple TCUs. Many blue and yellow TCUs are needed. TCUs fit better than quad cams, but a couple of BD 0.3-0.4 are useful. Fat bolts with stainless steal rings at the anchor.
Pitch two -- 40 meters - 5.11 -- excellent finger crack, but it turns to tips in a couple of short sections, the rack from pitch one works well (providing you bring a few purple TCUs). No extra gear is needed. Two excellent Metolius rap bolts.
We just cleaned a bunch of vegetation on the route and removed a few loose rocks. It is a super fun climb when you are just jonesing to do finger cracks. Bring a nut tool if you like to do a bit more crack cleaning.....
By Devin Fin
Nov 11, 2012
|weeeee what a climb small gear net moves .. the hard persons bunny slope . loved this climb not yer plug an suffer fest the creek is.... a lil bush at the top almost sent me on a log role..ha ha ha|
From: Durango, CO
Nov 25, 2012
|What the what?|
By Karl kelley
Sep 4, 2014
|FA, Dylan Warren.. To bad P2 seems to be plagued with vegetation. still worth doing. Another impressive onsight from Dylan.. P1 is stellar ramping fingers...|