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(04) Showdown Wall
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Finger Flake 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Carolyn Parker & John Kear, 2004 or so
Page Views: 1,908
Submitted By: Robin on Aug 6, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The route goes up the flake / finger crack. You c...


This is one of the best easy routes at the crag, but requires (very minimal) gear. Good to TR beginners on.

Heads up a right facing flake / finger crack and then a crack / slab.

You can also lead the the crack in the corner 3 feet left of the flake or any combination of the two you like and stay at 5.7.

I prefer to do one then the other for the most bang for my buck.


75 feet left of Sweet Jane at a place where the trail jogs downwards a few feet.


Single set of cams (C4) from 0.3 to #1. Doubles of 0.4 and 0.5 if you are worried. Single set of nuts would be fine too. 2BA.

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By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Carolyn Parker and I put up this route in 2004 or so. Finger Flake is as good of a name as any.
By sody
From: New Mexico
Aug 7, 2016

Climbed crack and slab today. Fun short trad. Be aware, on the flake, half way up is a loose hold. It sounds hollow, looks like a great hold, but when i climbed past it, it jiggled a little. Is still attached enough that i was not able to remove it, but just a heads up. If it is gone, it won't make that move harder since it will open another crack in the back of it.

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