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(4) Music Hall
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Finger Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
Page Views: 643
Submitted By: BrianWS on Apr 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Ali attempts with Milk on belay.

Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>


Bouldery start by pinching or crimping small holds and pebbles and stepping high. Gain the bolted finger crack and ride it to the ledge. You can easily cheat right at the crux. From the ledge, crank on a cool sloping ramp past a few more bolts.


The rightmost line of bolts in the pacific-facing section of Music Hall. Look for the crack, you can't miss it!
Anywhere else, the bolting and rebolting would have caused a shitstorm for sure. Leave your rack at home and savor the guiltiest of pleasures.


Titanium (2016/17)

Photos of Finger Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Milk on the final face crux
Milk on the final face crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Milk about to launch into the crux of Finger Crack...
Milk about to launch into the crux of Finger Crack...

Comments on Finger Crack Add Comment
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By Anmin Deng
From: Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Jan 14, 2011

The route is named "汋Õ" ("shu4-qin2"), meaning "harp", also a musical instrument.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Nov 20, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Small fingers make the crux far easier. In fact, for me, I would say it's a one-move-wonder that doesn't really compare to the consistent movement and difficulty of its neighbors, Fucking Fall and Big Drum. But if you're looking for a first "11c" tick, jump on it.
By BrianWS
Nov 22, 2013

I liked this route. The character of the climbing changes completely after the ledge. But true, it isn't nearly as continuous as the neighboring routes (which aren't all that continuous in the first place, given the monster horizontal halfway up)

It's not very difficult if you know how to jam and lock -- I sure as hell didn't when I climbed this route and it felt tough. I'd love to get the chance to climb it again and see how it measures up.
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Feb 2, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

11c is probably a good compromise grade as the crux is definitely more difficult if you cant get your fingers in that sweet crack and much easier if you can.

If you've got sausage fingers and are frustrated by the thin crux , you can bypass it by using holds on the right of the bulge -- just don't claim you climbed the "fingercrack"!

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