REI Community
Dark Star Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birds, The T 
Black Heart T,TR 
Dark Star T,TR 
Darwin T 
Fine Arete S 
Karmic Whiplash S 
Scratch My Back S 
Spring Fling T,TR 
Spring into Action S 
Wraith, The S 
Unsorted Routes:

Fine Arete 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,180
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: 11) Black Heart 15) Fine Arete


This is a nice climb that rises out of the water right on the arete that separates Dark Star from Autumnal Wall. Good clips, steep to overhanging rock. It does share a lot of its line with Shibumi.


2 bolts up top for the anchors. 8 draws for the climb

Comments on Fine Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By vincent pierce
Jul 21, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is really FUN! Reminds me a bit of Black Monday. Though it is not as steep it has those good holds that keep coming at ya. Pumped when u get to the crux near the last bolt. Try to stay off the blocky stuff to the right down low or u are just cheating yourself. I have heard it is called "fine arete".
By vincent pierce
Jul 22, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

That rating is supposed to be 11.a!
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 22, 2004

This route crosses over the old route Shibumi. Shibumi (look at Ruckman's guide) does a hand traverse along the ledge, gets to the arete and then crosses left at the faint left diagonalling cracks near the top. They share the middle bolts. Shibumi's crux was on the arete and was rated 5.11a. The FA of the arete line called it a 5.11b. I have done it and would call it a 5.11a. However, I wouldn't argue over 5.11a or 5.11b. Now to the 5.11d rating, I would be hard pressed to agree with you on that. I need to get back on it and see what I think. Anyone else have an opinion on this route?
By Eric Jacobsen
Jul 22, 2004

I think he meant to put 5.11a? We can change it if so.
By vincent pierce
Jul 26, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I meant to put 11a! See my 2nd comment. Of course if u think it is 11b I will take that instead. Haha.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Aug 27, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Lots of bolts! Great for an aspiring 11 leader. Good holds, more pumpy than anything.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

For years I have thought this was creekside crag and a different climb entirely. Glad I discovered what it really is. Fun, pumpy climb that goes out of the stream, lots of passing traffic for the glory seekers.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About