1)Fun moves into and up a capped corner lead to moderate face climbing past two bolts to a right facing corner. Another bolt marks the start of hard moves to the roof and a cool traverse out the right side. If you are doing just the first pitch clip shoulder lengths and lower. If you do the second pitch, plug a green or yellow for the belay and back it up by clipping the anchor bolts. If you just clip the anchors you will have an uncomfortable hanging belay. 2)Hard move left off of the anchor leads to moderate moves up to a big knob. From there work up and right to a bolt. A few more moves lead to a low angle ramp and belay on gear. Work up and left to finish on Dragon Book go right up Where Eaglets Dare. You can also 3rd class down the ramp and do another climb. The pretty block formed crack above the third bolt on the first pitch is wisely avoided as you will see if you lower off the first pitch anchors.
Just left of Where Eaglets Dare. A single bolt in a corner mark the start. An old shrub blocks access to the start of the corner.