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Find Shade 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
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Page Views: 922
Submitted By: Scott McLeod on May 29, 2014

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Looking down on the superb P2 finger crack

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Find Shade is a great route just left of Fine Jade, and sharing the last two pitches. While the rating is similar, it is less sustained than Fine Jade, sporting short cruxes instead. It is a great alternative with clean lines and fun climbing.

P1- Start 30' left of Fine Jade on the Rectory. You will see a bolt about 20' off the ground, which is the crux of pitch one. Climb past the bolt to lower angle terrain. Build an anchor at the base of the double cracks directly in front of you. 5.11- 50'

P2- Climb up the FUN double cracks sticking primarily to the right crack. At about 25', step and reach right to gain the crack 5' right. Continue up this crack until the crack peters out at a sloping ledge with lots of face features. Place whatever gear you can, and move right across the face 10' until you gain the crack out right, again. Gain the ledge for a two bolt belay. Pitch 1 and 2 can be linked for a 200+ foot pitch. 5.10

P3- Continue around a small roof, then into 10-15 feet of thoughtful 10+ climbing. YOu will soon come to the bolted belay of Fine Jade, just below the sandy 5.9 pitch. You can either belay here for a short pitch, or continue will very manageable rope drag up the bolts below the sundeck belay. 100' 5.10+

Climb the last pitch of Fine Jade, up the brilliant calcite bolted face. 5.11

Rap Fine Jade (not Fine Shade)

Location 

30 feet left of Fine Jade

Protection 

Depending on the how you link, consider more or less cams. You should be good to go with 2-3 cams in all sizes small up to #3 Camalot and 8-10 quickdraws.


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By Rob Dillon
Jun 2, 2014

Called 'Find Shade" according to the Jay Smith topo in my old Rock and Ice. We climbed it on a cooler day, but I like the name.
By MauryB
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2017

Fantastic climbing. Would be a 4 star route if it weren't next door to Fine Jade. Also a great way to snake crowds on its neighbor.

Pretty easily done in 2 pitches by linking P1&2 to the bolted belay, then a single pitch to the top finishing up the bolted face.

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