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Hallett Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better than Love T 
Bold Is Love T 
Center Route T 
Collins Donn T 
Culp-Bossier T 
Direct Second Buttress T 
Englishman's Route T 
Finch Route T 
Great Dihedral T 
Hesse-Ferguson T 
In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 
Jackin' the Johnson T,S 
Jackson-Johnson T 
Kor-Van Tongeren T 
Love at First Sight T 
Love Route T 
Northcutt-Carter T 
Point Five Buttress T 
Second Buttress Tour T 
Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 
Storm Riders T 
Unsorted Routes:

Finch Route 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Finch?
Page Views: 1,367
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 17, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Upper half of the 1st Buttress.

Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>


This route description just pertains to the upper pitches of the 1st Buttress of Hallett Peak. Reach the ledges dividing the lower and upper section of this buttress. You can get here via Great Dihedral, lower pitches of the Standard Route, even via the ledges off of the descent route. My party ended up here after we mistakenly did the first few pitches of Better than Love and traversed across Hallett's Chimney.

The route climbs the obvious corner system between the Standard Route (left) and the Center Route (right). Can be climbed in two long pitches with a 60m rope with a semi-hanging belay before a second small roof. The first pitch was fun standard Hallett affair. Much of the second pitch after the small roof entailed avoiding climbing inside a wide wet mossy crack. If dry, this pitch might be easier to climb and protect.


Standard rack to 4 inches.

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By Ryan Marsters
Sep 9, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'd say this is not a great route for a 5.7 (per the guidebook) leader. The pitches are pretty good and line up well with Great Dihedral, but the final pitch is certainly more "alpine." Save some finger-sized pieces for up high.

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